|Type:||Trad, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]|
|Submitted By:||Evan Stevens on Jun 17, 2008|
|Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Gauntlet||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Alex Ford
From: Seattle, Washington
Jul 5, 2016
Found this to be an excellent, if perhaps less-frequented, outing. We'd some minor route-finding confusion working from (2012) Squamish Select, as both the photo-topo in that book and the attached topo on this page are out of date.
P1-3: These would make an excellent outing on their own, and could be rapped on a single 60M via the Sunset Strip rap line. P3 (the fantastic .11a corner) has a bolted anchor about halfway up the pitch that can be easily used to cut down the burl factor. Off this intermediate belay there was a short OW feature that protects very well with a #5 C4, but could be liebacked without too much trouble.
P4: This is described as a "hard step right from the belay". We instead continued up the box corner, shared with Sunset Strip, from the belay and exited right via a short overhanging hand crack. An exit left here would keep you on Sunset Strip, bypassing the .11c P5.
P5: Wow. Such fun, much hard. Expect thin nuts and cerebral climbing after exiting the obvious corner above you.
P6: Very short. A near top-rope with a #5 C4, or a potentially slab-slapping fall without.
P7+: Step down & left to join the final 4 pitches shared with Sunset Strip. The finish of Gauntlet, as described in the topo, appeared quite dirty.
All in all, this was a great climb. Would definitely recommend the full climb, climbing P1-3 alone from the base, or using P1-3 as a variation to add a touch of .11a to Sunset Strip.