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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Southern Wasatch
> American Fork C…
> Hell Area
> El Diablo Wall
The Gateway
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 19
votes
Routes in El Diablo Wall
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Big G, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Body Count S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Cop Killer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dead Souls S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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El Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gateway, The S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ghost White S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Half Acre S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heck S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I'll Be Damned S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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I'll Take Black S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Inferno S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Little G' S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Malvado S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Old Feller S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Optimist, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Perdition S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Power Junkie S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Purgatory S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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San Miguel S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Satanism and Sports S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Soul Fission S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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White Noise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Pedersen (unknown date) |
| Page Views: | 2,073 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Lewis on Jul 18, 2012 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
Fun, thin and sustained climbing! Scramble up the easy, albeit scary & crumbling choss pile to gain the 1st bolt (highly recommend stick-clipping the 1st bolt or walking around & up a slight trail that leads to a ledge to the right of the 1st bolt and carefully clipping it. A lot of lose rock has broken off while climbing up to the first bolt. Helmets should be used! After the 1st bolt the rock is solid.)
Traverse slightly to the left after the 1st bolt and up onto the main face. From here the climbing consists of small hold to small hold, with the crux about midway up the climb. Climbing sequentially and thoughtfully will help the climb come together. Very bouldery. If you can climb through the crux & ward off the pump you will find a decent rest a few moves below the anchors.
Solid at 5.12a for the area.
NOTE: In addition to The Gateway there appears to be another route on the left side of the crag (The Gateway is the route on the right side of the cliff) that someone has been putting in. I can't find any info on this climb.
Traverse slightly to the left after the 1st bolt and up onto the main face. From here the climbing consists of small hold to small hold, with the crux about midway up the climb. Climbing sequentially and thoughtfully will help the climb come together. Very bouldery. If you can climb through the crux & ward off the pump you will find a decent rest a few moves below the anchors.
Solid at 5.12a for the area.
NOTE: In addition to The Gateway there appears to be another route on the left side of the crag (The Gateway is the route on the right side of the cliff) that someone has been putting in. I can't find any info on this climb.
Location
This route faces south and is the first climb/cliff you encounter on the approach to El Diablo Wall and Hell Cave. You can see the crag across the highway from the parking pull-out for the above named areas. You walk around this crag and up a short talus field to gain the 'main' El Diablo area.
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