The Gatekeeper 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Jonathan Siegrist |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Jonathan Siegrist on Sep 5, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the Archer's Perch while Paige Claas...
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Description Begin on the far left side of the alcove and do a couple moves up and right on a slab to the first bolt. From here, weave up right and then back left on good quality stone through interesting, varied moves to the perch. Be mindful of loose rock while enjoying the killer view and even better rest. Start left of the bolt at the perch and climb the final 30 feet of increasing difficulty on steep rock to the chains. This climb offers an excellent warm up for the hard climbs in the area and also stays completely dry (as do the others in the alcove) during the rain.
Location This is to the left of 'Magic Carpet Ride', a hundred feet right of 'Take Me to Your Leader'.
Protection 8 liberally spaced bolts to chains.
| Comments on The Gatekeeper |
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By Top Rope Hero
From: Estes Park
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.11d
| Absolutely spectacular, steep 'n' exposed on juggy/heel-hooking madness with the crux at the very, very end. Worth the price of the hike alone.
That said, I'm gonna suggest this guy is 11d. It's hard, but with the multiple no-hands rests, it's not nearly as hard as, say, Red Neck Hero, Lyons (www.mountainproject.com/v/redneck-hero/105753994), Andrology, Estes--which started out as an 11d (www.mountainproject.com/v/andrology/105756496), or Sargasso Sea, Boulder (www.mountainproject.com/v/sargasso-sea/105748529).
Having said THAT, my buddy says I'm full 'ave' it and that it's about the experience, not the numbers. So, there you go.
Either way, it's definitely a hero line. |
By Colin Kenneth
From: Berkeley, CA
Aug 22, 2012
rating: 5.11d
| This was a really nice bit of climbing. I agree with the above comparison to Andrology. If not for the constant opportunities to rest and really positive holds, I'd call it 12a. But as it stands, if you are expecting the last 20 feet of amped up climbing, you can refuel and prepare for it to wrangle in the difficulty quite a bit. I'd call it the hard end of 11d, because I'm not cool enough to onsight a long 12a like this. |
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