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The Gatehouse

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The Gatehouse  


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: dcohn on Jan 11, 2009
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Description 

The Gatehouse is a small, but good winter crag. It gets a lot of afternoon sun and is low on the mountain. There are 10 routes and they all require gear. 7 of them are 5.10 or harder. The quality of climbing makes it worth visiting, despite the difficult approach.

Getting There 

Squeezing the Lemmon describes it pretty well. Go to the second major drainage past Molino Basin campground. As you go up the mountain, there will be a parking pull-off on the left just before this drainage. Walk up the drainage past a very tall formation on the right side. The Gatehouse is just past this and a little higher up. It is not very wide, but you will see bolts on it and a chimney on the left side. The approach is kind of a nasty bushwack so be prepared. It will probably take 30-50 minutes depending on many factors.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.6 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Gatehouse

Parole Bored 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : The Gatehouse
This route felt much harder than we expected since the guidebook said it was 5.6. It is kind of an interesting lead with a lot of stemming and little OW. The pro is thin until you reach the bottom of the crack, at which point you will spend a lot of time looking in little nooks and crannies for the best place to put pro. There is a large wedged boulder on top that can be slung for an anchor. Scramble off down a sandy chimney and walk back around to the base of the crag. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

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