Known to Willamette Valley locals for years, The Garden is one of the state's best bouldering areas. Tucked away in the forest near Sweet Home are a few collections of gigantic boulders with many great problems and potential for many more.
The area is generally separated into two areas: the main area and the Armageddon area. The main area is more developed although there is a ton of potential at both. There is some sport climbing here as well on a few 30-50ft. cliffs.
The rock in this area is generally quite good. There are lots of slopers and the problems are similar to those found up at Squamish. The cruxes of the problems tend to come towards the top due to the sloping rounded nature of many of the boulders.
Be sure to bring some sturdy brushes when climbing here-- there is a ton of moss on the boulders and due to seeing relatively little traffic they get overgrown quickly. Somewhere underneath all the moss there are undoubtedly plenty of yet to be discovered problems.
Take Hwy. 20 East through Sweet Home. Drive through town and past the lake. Look for a sign to Quartzville and the fish hatchery and take the left turn. The parking for the main area is 4.3 miles from the turnoff. There are two prominent uphill dirt roads at about this distance; the first one goes to the Armageddon area and the second (better quality) road leads to the main area. Parking for the main area is 50m up this road at the big sweeping left turn. Take the trail down into the forest from here to reach the boulders.
One of the most popular boulders in the garden. Start low in the cave, left hand sloper and right hand on a small crimp SDS. Grunge your way up a hard v7/8 to a small heel hook rest. Then traverse left on a rail system to the left most side of the boulder, traverse around 20 ft to the left after completing the initial cave.One of the 5 hard lines left at sweethome....[more]Browse More Classics in OR
By corvegas From: the depths of oregon Apr 28, 2006
This area is on private land be respectful. Place bolts by hand, dont leave fixed ropes. As of 4/10 ago someone had left their rope fixed in the main area for a while. If your cleaning, at least clean your rope when you leave.
Also dont place bolts where they dont need to be, they will probably wind up getting chopped.
question: is anyone aware of a guide book for Oregon bouldering locations (ie The Garden and Carver)??? I've checked local climbing gyms and the REI's around the area to find a possible Oregon bouldering book, have havent found anything......
I'll approve the comments regarding the "real" names and grades for these problems, with one piece of Administrator advice:
If you write an "underground" guidebook, don't get all annoyed when people don't know about it and follow its conventions. Lots of people climb at The Garden who are totally unaware of any guidebooks, especially undergound/secret/low-profile ones..
So....I'm not sure that this whole naming thing really matters too much. I'm thinking one of the cool things about this place is that the problems are frequently reinvented as they get done, moss over, then get cleaned and done again. I always sort of thought a guide would screw that up. That said i do have some old topos if somebody has an interest. eb
Well Mr PDub Trad, has forgotten to leave out a few MAJOR details I told him over on CascadeClimbers.com... Since I dont want hide like Mr. PDub, My name is Douglas Foley, I climbed at what he calls "The Garden" exstensivly through out the late 70's and early 80's. We called it The Enchanted Forest. We cleaned and scrubbed hundreds of problems, some I would say were quite hard for the time. So don't listen to his psyco diatribe. I made it clear to him I have no desire to help him in his quest due too his extremly poor attititude but if there is any one else out there that cares to ask me any questions about the good old days in the Enchanted Forest feel free to contact me. I'm trying to remember the few problems we acctually named, most of these being the hard ones.
I agree with eb, route names and fa are not so important here. Boulder problems in the NW are perennially fa'd. There is one rule though that all must abide - all problems existing or to be scrubbed are V2.
Hey there, I'm interested in contributing to a guide, I've climbed many of the problems/ have potentially FA'd some hard stuff w/ confirmation from the Old strong dudes here in corvallis. My email is Galen.email@example.com I'd be down to meet up sometime. I have a large volume of information in hard copy.
Does anyone know what the hanging arete/prow about 30 yards up the hill from Octernal(?) is? It has a diamond shape and is very aesthetic. One of the best looking lines there. It looked freshly cleaned early in the summer. I wasn't able to send, it seemed quite hard (double digits I'm guessing) from the sit.
Does anyone know what this problem is? It is possibly the same one described in the above comment. This problem is located to the right when looking at The Good V3, at the base of a long low-angle slab and near the edge of some dense forest. Is this Cavebound Squirrel?
Cool looking compression problem on the north edge of The Garden. Starts with opposing good holds, and has good right hand holds and abysmal slopers for the left, and a hard-looking topout. Anyone know the name and grade?
I was unable to find this area. After driving the 4.3 miles from the turn off, I didn't see any dirt roads uphill. I found one road uphill at about 4.6 miles that appeared to be a logging road. It had a sign 'No unauthorized vehicles', so I walked up the road for a few hundred yards, but didn't see any sign of boulders. I assume the 50m means 50 meters? Anyone have some directions that could help me out?
So I was out bouldering at the Garden today, and anyway, decided to explore the large cliff that's about 1/2 mile before the garden coming from Sweet Home, on the left side of the road, and 400' from the road. Its a taller cliff, probably between 60'-80' in height and about 200' long, give or take. Looks like really pretty good rock from the base. I didn't see any signs of development on it. Is that true? It looks like it has a couple dozen potentially good lines on it, some trad, some would be sport. Anyone familiar with this cliff?