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The Garden

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Garden Boulders, The 
Garden Cliffs 

The Garden Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.4423, -122.568 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 32,410
Administrators: Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Apr 23, 2006  with updates from Jayson Nissen
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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bread loft boulder


Known to Willamette Valley locals for years, The Garden is one of the state's best bouldering areas. Tucked away in the forest near Sweet Home are a few collections of gigantic boulders with many great problems and potential for many more.

The area is generally separated into two areas: the main area and the Armageddon area. The main area is more developed although there is a ton of potential at both. There is some sport climbing here as well on a few 30-50ft. cliffs.

The rock in this area is generally quite good. There are lots of slopers and the problems are similar to those found up at Squamish. The cruxes of the problems tend to come towards the top due to the sloping rounded nature of many of the boulders.

Be sure to bring some sturdy brushes when climbing here-- there is a ton of moss on the boulders and due to seeing relatively little traffic they get overgrown quickly. Somewhere underneath all the moss there are undoubtedly plenty of yet to be discovered problems.

Getting There 

Drive 3.4 miles down Quratzville Rd from the Junction with 20. You will pass several forest roads on the left just before you come to the boulders. The Boulders will be somewhat hidden in trees on your left. There is a large opening about 100 yards past them with a cliff at the back of it to indicate you have gone to far. A pullout on the right about 100 yards before the boulders is the best parking. Please park completely off of the road. The trail leaves Quartzville Rd just below the boulders and is fairly obvious.

Climbing Season

For the Willamette Valley area.

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

47 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',27],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Garden:
Mole   V0-1 4+     Boulder, 10'   The Garden Boulders
Showboat   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   The Garden Boulders
Bitchslap   V2 5+     Boulder, 8'   The Garden Boulders
Trust   V2-3 5+     Boulder, 12'   The Garden Boulders
Swollen Member   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 5'   The Garden Boulders
The Locksmith   V4 6B     Boulder, 35'   The Garden Boulders
The Ear   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   The Garden Boulders
Leave it to Jesus   V5 6C PG13     Boulder   The Garden Boulders
The Siren   V5 6C     Boulder, 10'   The Garden Boulders
Octernal   V8 7B     Boulder, 25'   The Garden Boulders
A Garden Called Peace   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Garden Cliffs
Nest   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Garden Cliffs
The Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet Bowl Odyssey   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Garden Cliffs
Slithering Skink (AKA Dirty Skank)   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Garden Cliffs
My Secret Garden   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Garden Cliffs
Scorpion Revenge   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 55'   Garden Cliffs
Daring to Fly   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   Garden Cliffs
The Seraphim Nachash   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Garden Cliffs
Wildlings   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Garden Cliffs
Fight Club (Round Two)    5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   Garden Cliffs
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Garden

Featured Route For The Garden
Rock Climbing Photo: Really fun route up the clean prow

Daring to Fly 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  OR : Willamette Valley : ... : Garden Cliffs
This is the 5 star route here and a must do! Climb up good holds on the right side of the "cave" to a large hold about 30' up. Pull a quick cruxy move, and shake out. Work up to a high clip and then figure the unique crux out, requiring both technique, power and compression. Get a final shake on the jug, and then finish the last pumpy moves to the anchor. A surprisingly sustained route, despite the several good holds and (mostly) vertical terrain....[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of The Garden Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Breadloaf
Rock Climbing Photo: Breadloaf
Rock Climbing Photo: Octernal.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Ear
The Ear
Rock Climbing Photo: The bread and butter.
The bread and butter.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mole
Rock Climbing Photo: Entry to the Garden
Entry to the Garden
Rock Climbing Photo: Octernal
Rock Climbing Photo: Regina pulling into the sun.  It's a V3 traverse t...
Regina pulling into the sun. It's a V3 traverse t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Undertow Boulder  harder than V3 variation of Unde...
Undertow Boulder harder than V3 variation of Unde...
Rock Climbing Photo: V4 at the Garden
V4 at the Garden
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the first boulders you come to at the Garde...
One of the first boulders you come to at the Garde...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kip on an unknown boulder at the Garden
Kip on an unknown boulder at the Garden
Rock Climbing Photo: Mole
Rock Climbing Photo: Trust V3
Trust V3
Rock Climbing Photo: Breadloaf
Rock Climbing Photo: The Garden is the patch of trees marked in this Go...
The Garden is the patch of trees marked in this Go...
Rock Climbing Photo: Daniel pulling a mossy mantle deep in the Garden.
Daniel pulling a mossy mantle deep in the Garden.

Comments on The Garden Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 5, 2016
By corvegas
From: the depths of oregon
Apr 28, 2006
This area is on private land be respectful. Place bolts by hand, dont leave fixed ropes. As of 4/10 ago someone had left their rope fixed in the main area for a while. If your cleaning, at least clean your rope when you leave.

Also dont place bolts where they dont need to be, they will probably wind up getting chopped.
By Steven Wright
Aug 1, 2009
question: is anyone aware of a guide book for Oregon bouldering locations (ie The Garden and Carver)??? I've checked local climbing gyms and the REI's around the area to find a possible Oregon bouldering book, have havent found anything......
By Peter Franzen
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 1, 2009
There is a new bouldering guide for Carver coming out soon (it's done, and it should be released in the next month or so), but I'm not aware of a guide for all of Oregon's bouldering areas.
By Peter Franzen
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 29, 2010
I'll approve the comments regarding the "real" names and grades for these problems, with one piece of Administrator advice:

If you write an "underground" guidebook, don't get all annoyed when people don't know about it and follow its conventions. Lots of people climb at The Garden who are totally unaware of any guidebooks, especially undergound/secret/low-profile ones..
By Eric Brown
From: Corvallis, oregon
Jul 4, 2010
So....I'm not sure that this whole naming thing really matters too much. I'm thinking one of the cool things about this place is that the problems are frequently reinvented as they get done, moss over, then get cleaned and done again. I always sort of thought a guide would screw that up. That said i do have some old topos if somebody has an interest.
By alpine glower
From: Soon to be Sweet Home, OR
Jul 26, 2010
Well Mr PDub Trad, has forgotten to leave out a few MAJOR details I told him over on Since I dont want hide like Mr. PDub, My name is Douglas Foley, I climbed at what he calls "The Garden" exstensivly through out the late 70's and early 80's. We called it The Enchanted Forest. We cleaned and scrubbed hundreds of problems, some I would say were quite hard for the time. So don't listen to his psyco diatribe. I made it clear to him I have no desire to help him in his quest due too his extremly poor attititude but if there is any one else out there that cares to ask me any questions about the good old days in the Enchanted Forest feel free to contact me. I'm trying to remember the few problems we acctually named, most of these being the hard ones.
By Orion Watson
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 1, 2010
I agree with eb, route names and fa are not so important here. Boulder problems in the NW are perennially fa'd. There is one rule though that all must abide - all problems existing or to be scrubbed are V2.

By Burk S.
From: Lebanon, Oregon
Apr 26, 2012
Has anyone created a guide book for this place? It might be nice to have.
By BighornAdams
May 17, 2012
I'd be interested in a guide to this area as well. Any news?
By GalenCP
From: buubs
Nov 6, 2012
Hey there, I'm interested in contributing to a guide, I've climbed many of the problems/ have potentially FA'd some hard stuff w/ confirmation from the Old strong dudes here in corvallis. My email is I'd be down to meet up sometime. I have a large volume of information in hard copy.
By Nizate P
Nov 17, 2012
Does anyone know what the hanging arete/prow about 30 yards up the hill from Octernal(?) is? It has a diamond shape and is very aesthetic. One of the best looking lines there. It looked freshly cleaned early in the summer. I wasn't able to send, it seemed quite hard (double digits I'm guessing) from the sit.
By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 24, 2013
Does anyone know what this problem is? It is possibly the same one described in the above comment. This problem is located to the right when looking at The Good V3, at the base of a long low-angle slab and near the edge of some dense forest. Is this Cavebound Squirrel?
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool looking compression problem on the north edge...
Cool looking compression problem on the north edge of The Garden. Starts with opposing good holds, and has good right hand holds and abysmal slopers for the left, and a hard-looking topout. Anyone know the name and grade?
By Nizate P
Jul 8, 2013
I think it is Cave Bound Squirrel (or The Guillotine?). I sent it a few weeks ago. I'm clueless when it comes to grades but it seemed somewhere in the V8 - 10 range.
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Jul 23, 2013
I was unable to find this area. After driving the 4.3 miles from the turn off, I didn't see any dirt roads uphill. I found one road uphill at about 4.6 miles that appeared to be a logging road. It had a sign 'No unauthorized vehicles', so I walked up the road for a few hundred yards, but didn't see any sign of boulders. I assume the 50m means 50 meters? Anyone have some directions that could help me out?
By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 24, 2013
Please see the photo I just attached to the main page. Match this to a view on Google Maps if necessary. The boulders are easily visible from the main road if you look up at the right time.
By Doctor Jibs
Sep 4, 2014
There is a guidebook, it's an underground one that floats around the locals at oregon state universities climbing gyms
By Jayson Nissen
From: Corvallis, OR
May 5, 2016
I'm pretty sure that the boulders are about 3.4 miles from the highway. They are quite obvious in the woods uphill from the river with a small 2 car parking space just after them.

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