The Garden Wall Rock Climbing
Shady Baby's start.
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The Garden Wall is a minor crag in CCC with four routes presently established in the range of 5.10 to 5.11. One of these is strictly trad, the other three being fully bolted. Several more short and steep lines will be done later in the year. The rock is granitic and very solid. Due to the heavy vegetation, most of the crag gets little sun, and this can be user-friendly on a hot day. TGW won't hold anything remarkable, but it can provide a short respite from the crowds and the summer heat. Several boulder problems might be worth checking out.
TGW lies on the South side of the canyon and 200 meters East of Sonic Youth
. Park as for Sonic
or in a tiny pullout just East of the crag. No real trail exists, but a scruffy approach has been used enough to be identified. Otherwise scramble up from the lower angle terrain to the East. The approach time is 30 seconds or so. Eds. there is a trail going to the left side of the cliff. A traverse of ~50 yards from the left side deposits you below the right side of the cliff.
, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Shady Boy
, 10, 1p, 65', bolts.
FG. Shady Affair
, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
G. Shady Girl
, 10, 1p, 65', bolts.
H. Shady Baby
, 9+ PG-13/R, 1p, 65', gear & bolts or TR.
Weather station 3.7 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Garden Wall
Shady Girl 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b CO
: ... : The Garden Wall
This is the right of two routes sharing an anchor and on the right side of the crag. Easy moves off the deck lead to a tricky sequence moving around the arete. It has good quality rock and fun climbing. While this may appear overbolted in the lower section, the climbing is still committing between clips 3 and 5. Overall, the climbing seemed far more tricky than it appeared from the ground. Don't be fooled, there is still a difficult move guarding the slab above. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
A possible location of the trad line left of Shady...
This shows the bolted line on the left side of the...
By Jay Eggleston
Jul 23, 2014
Does anyone know how hard the route to the left of Shady Boy is? I have not done it, but I wish I knew what it is.
By A. Bandos
Sep 23, 2014
I could be wrong, but I'm trying to clarify for everyone (or the 3 people who actually trek up here).
The main wall has three bolted lines. Shady Boy is left and Shady Girl is on the right. The middle line is a variation of Shady Girl that climbs 4 bolts before it joins Shady Girl. I would say this is the hardest of the three. It's not listed here, does anyone know a name or rating?
There is also another bolted line about 50 feet left of Shady Boy. Also not listed here.
By Pierre Sarnow
Dec 9, 2014
The middle bolted line (Shady Affair) has the most difficult start. I would rate it 11-.
By Mark E Dixon
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Jul 19, 2016
The easiest approach might be:
walk east from the parking until you reach a 40 MPH sign on the north side of the road. Scramble up the hillside to the cliff near the base of Lockjaw.
Follow the cliff base west, with one more annoying steep uphill dirt scramble to reach the area around Cobra.
Continue west more easily along the base to reach the Shady Boys and Girls.
Be aware that while initial cruxes are ok, the upper slabs on these western routes aren't that shady in July!
It may be reasonable to approach more directly to the western end of the crag, but we didn't see any hint of a trail.