This route is best found by walking to the left end of the buttress and then back-tracking to the right 2 lines. The climb can be identified by the features on and around it. On the ground, a swell of rock to the left goes up a little slot to access the ledge before the climb's first bolt. The climb ascends past a bolt below a bulge, over the bulge for a clip that will be either tricky or high-ball (crux, height dependent 10c). Note closing comments on this. Past the second clip the climbing eases slightly to bigger holds and shorter moves (5.9?) on a left-leaning line to reach chain anchors.
Both the belayer and climber should consider this second clip carefully, as the clip is tricky and insecure from down low and a little highball from past the crux. With the ledge below, blowing the clip could be an ankle-breaker.As well, the previous bolt is long enough that one is tempted to clip it with a longer sling to avoid drag later, but this will lengthen a fall. I caught my partner on 3 lead falls from the crux, each ending perhaps a foot above the ledge. If I'd not paid close attention or if she'd outweighed me, she might have hit it hard.
A rack of draws, including one longer sling plus something up top for the chain anchor.
Garden of Eden.
garden of eden
From: Centerville, UT
Dec 2, 2008
I thought this route was really fun. The bulge is slopey but it has a decent clipping stance from below. After you pull over it, enjoy the juggy yet pumpy run to the anchors.
Jun 3, 2013
That bulge was my undoing. If you move past it quickly, things will go a lot better for ya.
From: santa clara, utah
Aug 12, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I loved this climb. Steep, with good holds, lots of variety (some cool pinches midway...) and a great finish on really big holds. Stays in the shade a really long time. The anchors are super nice, gym-style clips, so you don't need to hang your own gear up there.