The Garden Of Eden  5.10d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  T. Perkins (90's) Submitted By:  Tony B on Nov 26, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The bulge.

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Description 

This route is best found by walking to the left end of the buttress and then back-tracking to the right 2 lines. The climb can be identified by the features on and around it. On the ground, a swell of rock to the left goes up a little slot to access the ledge before the climb's first bolt. The climb ascends past a bolt below a bulge, over the bulge for a clip that will be either tricky or high-ball (crux, height dependent 10c). Note closing comments on this. Past the second clip the climbing eases slightly to bigger holds and shorter moves (5.9?) on a left-leaning line to reach chain anchors.

Both the belayer and climber should consider this second clip carefully, as the clip is tricky and insecure from down low and a little highball from past the crux. With the ledge below, blowing the clip could be an ankle-breaker.As well, the previous bolt is long enough that one is tempted to clip it with a longer sling to avoid drag later, but this will lengthen a fall. I caught my partner on 3 lead falls from the crux, each ending perhaps a foot above the ledge. If I'd not paid close attention or if she'd outweighed me, she might have hit it hard.

Protection 

A rack of draws, including one longer sling plus something up top for the chain anchor.

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Garden of Eden.

garden of eden