Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in West Wall
|
Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
Anesthesia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Arctic Breeze S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Arrowroot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Bombs Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Crazy Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Jester, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Last Laugh, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Magnum Force T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Main Vein T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Slash, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Third Stone From The Sun T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Vanishing Point T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
West Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Richard Harrison and Jay Smith, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 3,750 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Dec 14, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
You can either do the same start as Hospital Corner, or start up a grungy corner just to the right of that. first pitch, 5.8. you could also start up the first pitch of Anesthesia (that sparsely, but adequately bolted slab just right of HC, 5.8) You can either build a gear belay on some blocks at the base of the huge flake, or do what we did, which was to build it on the p1 Anesthesia bolted belay, 10 feet to the right. This saves your hand-sized cams you need for higher on the route.
Pitch two starts by pulling up and in on a finger crack, into a shallow corner, 10b crux. Then, you pull up into the steeper hand crack behind a huge flake that is right of HC. The crack here is actually overhanging, and you can even do some chimney moves behind the flake. Good stemming as well. Finishes at the HC bolted anchor.
This is a very fun route. It is a little grungy since it doesn't see the traffic that HC does, but it is quality. If you can do HC, you can do this route.
Rap off. 70m rope necessary to get to HC p1 bolts, 2 60m ropes will get you to the ground in 1 rap.
Note: most guidebooks list this as 5.8. The crux is NOT 5.8.
Pitch two starts by pulling up and in on a finger crack, into a shallow corner, 10b crux. Then, you pull up into the steeper hand crack behind a huge flake that is right of HC. The crack here is actually overhanging, and you can even do some chimney moves behind the flake. Good stemming as well. Finishes at the HC bolted anchor.
This is a very fun route. It is a little grungy since it doesn't see the traffic that HC does, but it is quality. If you can do HC, you can do this route.
Rap off. 70m rope necessary to get to HC p1 bolts, 2 60m ropes will get you to the ground in 1 rap.
Note: most guidebooks list this as 5.8. The crux is NOT 5.8.
13 Comments