The Gambler 5.11-
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Richard and Lisa Harrison, Michelle Locatelli, October 2005 |
| Submitted By: | Danny Meyers on Nov 28, 2006 |
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Joe Simon
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Description "Bolted by Richard Harrison, Lisa Harrison, & Michelle Locatelli, The Gambler is a memorium to John Rosholt, a.k.a. The Gambler. This route gets better with each ascent. F.A. by Richard ,Lisa & Michelle early Oct., 2005"
Location This is the newest route on the wall and lies between Sweet Pain and Glitter Gulch.
Protection Bolts (6) and chain anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Good heel rest right after clipping the 4th bolt.
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By Pete Bresciani Dec 30, 2006 rating: 5.10d
| This is a great route and a testament to the Richard's (and Lisa's!) eye for spotting lines! I'm not sure why it's listed as 5.11c here but a consensus grade I hear around town is 10d (for taller people) and 11a (for shorter types). I say this not to downgrade the route but to encourage everyone to try it since it's a fun climb with giant jugs the whole way. |
By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Mar 4, 2007 rating: 5.11a
| Despite the grade, it'd be better to warm up on Glitter Gulch or something else to the right- the route is quite steep and the flash pump comes at you fast if this is the first route of the day. Also, it being a new route- be careful toward the top- word has it that more than one rock has come off of it recently... |
By Karsten From: Sacramento, CA Apr 9, 2007 rating: 5.10+
| I was there on the day they finished the route up and redpointed it. When I gave it a try I took a nice little winger when a "key foothold" broke off. I might add that despite the rock breaking, my fall was clean and all the bolts were well placed and in places where you would want them. I would say that the rock quality is not quite as good as routes around it. That being said, it is still a fun route that is worth doing and may improve with age as loose stuff is cleaned off. |
By Michael Kimm From: Las Vegas, NV Mar 18, 2010 rating: 5.11b
| The wet winter proved to be too much for all the holds on The Gambler; the route has a new crux, and is probably 11b now if you're short. The climbing is far less pleasent now too... a shame... |
By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Mar 22, 2010 rating: 5.11a
| Michael- can't say I noticed any broken holds, or a new crux- it's been awhile since I've been on the route, though. It was still loads of fun and pretty mellow- well worth doing. My partner also had no trouble at 5'4". The first bolt on the route has been replaced. |
By Zach.Moore From: Duluth, MN May 26, 2010 rating: 5.11a
| This route is awesome. In fact, every route to the right and left of it is also great. Thanks bolters :) |
By Nick Barczak Oct 18, 2010
| Extremely Fun route. 5.10d, in my opinion, given the straightforward movement and large holds. It is possible to gain a no-hands rest by straddling the "prow" next to the 3rd bolt. |
By Maeve Devlin May 22, 2012
| My friend climbed The Gambler earlier today, and he said that the second bolt hanger was spinning, the bolt itself was wiggling, and it moved when he pulled on the quickdraw to test it. Just be safe when you climb it. Probably not the best route to climb if 11- is pushing it for you. |
By Johnny Ink From: Portland Nov 19, 2012
| climbed this route yesterday. awesome route! i didn't notice spinning bolts. i agree with the 10d rating. i suggest climbing to the jug above the crux bolt before making the clip. it'll make life a lot easier. |
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