Mountain Project: Climbing Shelf Road

Visible to the west of the Sand Gulch Campground is the Gallery consisting of three walls:

1) The Far Side is the southern (left) side of the canyon facing NE
2) The Menses Prow is the central south facing buttress, and
3) The Mural Wall on the right side facing west, and the Fish Wall at its left end.

The Menses Prow includes the prow proper as well as the Bulge Wall around the corner. Both this area and the Mural Wall have high concentrations of quality routes on good rock. Ratings run from 5.7 to 5.13, most routes in the 10-12 range. There are scattered routes on the Far Side including sections further to the North called the Pitts and the Dungeon. Just downhill from here are a couple of short steep routes on the Incredible Hulk Boulder. You can find morning shade on Mural Wall and Bulge Wall and afternoon shade at the Far Side.

Getting There

There are two options. The first and best option is to park at the Sand Gulch campground, and follow an excellent trail that begins between campsites #9 and #10. Follow this trail for 2 minutes downhill to a wash, cross the wash and arrive at the old Gallery parking area. The other alternative is to drive to this parking area. From Shelf Road, turn left on the road to the Sand Gulch campground. After 30 yds the road makes a sharp bend right, and a less-defined dirt road heads off straight/left. Follow this 4WD road for several hundred yards to the unmarked P-Lot. Super not recommended.

From the Parking Lot, a well-maintained trail heads NW toward the cliffs. The Trail parallels a barbed-wire fence for the first bit. Well-signed trails diverge towards the Far Side, Mural Wall, and finally the Menses Prow. A left at the first fork leads to the Far Side. Staying right will lead to another fork, where a right turn leads to the Mural Wall/Fish Wall and the left fork heads to the Menses Prow. 20-30 Minute Approach.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Gallery:

Period Piece 5.7+ Sport, 1 pitch Menses Prow

First Blood 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Menses Prow

Block Party 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch Mural Wall

Pueblo Gringos 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Menses Prow

Lick My Love Pump aka Love Pump 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch Menses Prow

Slender Fungus 5.10c Sport, 2 pitches Menses Prow

The Big Chill 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch Menses Prow

Menses 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch Menses Prow

Morpheus 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Mural Wall

No Passion for Fashion 5.11b/c Sport, 1 pitch Menses Prow

Lunch at the Y 5.11b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Menses Prow

First Strike 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch Menses Prow

Thirteen Engines 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch Menses Prow

Graceland 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch Menses Prow

Monet 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch Mural Wall

Wading Through a Ventilator 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Fish Wall

M&M 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Mural Wall

Motif 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Mural Wall

Sundogs 5.12a/b Sport, 1 pitch Menses Prow

The Mural 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch Mural Wall

Comments on The Gallery

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By Sean O'Dell
Apr 8, 2002

Mense's Prow/Bluge wall has what is probably the highest concentration of moderate routes in Shelf Road. Where as the other walls in the area might have one or 2 routes under 5.10, this wall has at least half a dozen. Probably the best bet for intermediate leaders in the area.

By CLR
Dec 30, 2002

In 1995 I soloed up the west side, of the South East Arete, of the California Pinnacle (it was Just like soloing the last pitch of the Flame)...When I got the the top, I wrapped a rope -10 ft. down and drilled two climbs: *The one on the East side (of the South East Arete) is called Red Dog *The one one the North West side of the California Pinnacle is called Tucker's Faith. Then I hiked to the top of Bat Crack and tryed to clean it but: there were to many bats, and the sun was going down. So I lowered the anchors, left the BOSCH, and returned the next day to finish it with Jasson. This was two weeks before I fell off -above sky line- of DoRDi, and stopped that dirty shi.....

By Legs Magillicutty
From: Littleton
Jan 27, 2003

What is the name of the route on the California Pinnacle facing the trail? I don't see it listed here or in any of the guide books. It's a bolted line, approx 75-80', felt like it was about 10a ish, give or take.

By Sean O'Dell
Jun 3, 2003

Tracy - I've never heard a name for it. I think Knapp's book lists it as "Unknown - 5.9+" but I'm not sure. For lack of a better name, my parties have always referred to it as "Plumber's Crack." Who knows, maybe we should post it that way and then it'll stick...

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 21, 2004

Anyone know the name of the route two lines to the right of B.O.S.S. Method? I believe that Dumb Waiter ascends the inside arete (dark, with a bulge near the top riddled with four-finger pockets) just right and across the chimney from Method. The one I'm asking about is the outside, blunt arete a yard or so right of this, where the trail bends at a gnarled tree. About six bolts, a brief, thin crack half way up, small black roof just before the anchors...

By Nate Oakes
May 14, 2007

A reminder to watch for loose rock, even with as much traffic as this area gets. This weekend on Menses Prow, a loose block was pulled off and broke a belayer's leg, requiring a stretcher and helicopter flight out of the canyon. Be careful!

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The Gallery

Description

Getting There

The Classics