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The Wasp Canyon
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The G Route 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Glenn Schuler
Page Views: 4,566
Submitted By: phil wortmann on May 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Description 

This is the rightmost bolted route on Starlight Buttress, and left of RAVEN'S HAVEN corner. It is overhung and pumpy for the entirety. The crux is midway up, moving past crimpers to a juggy ledge. This is the most sustained route on the buttress and a must do. It is a straightforward route with a little of everything, from crimpers to jugs, and an occasional long reach/dyno.

Location 

This is on the Starlight Buttress.

Protection 

Save two long runners for the anchors.


Photos of The G Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Larry gunning for the jugs.
Larry gunning for the jugs.
Rock Climbing Photo: John getting the redpoint.
John getting the redpoint.
Rock Climbing Photo: A colorful Stefan Doucette going for the belay.
A colorful Stefan Doucette going for the belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: A snowy attempt of The G Route.
A snowy attempt of The G Route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Snow flying as I finally figure out the crux moves...
Snow flying as I finally figure out the crux moves...
Rock Climbing Photo: A heartbreaking crux thankfully eases into the (se...
A heartbreaking crux thankfully eases into the (se...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris entering the land of jugs.
Chris entering the land of jugs.
Rock Climbing Photo: ...and the pump hits ya.
...and the pump hits ya.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep and pumpy-huge holds- only one STOPPER move ...
Steep and pumpy-huge holds- only one STOPPER move ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stefan in B&W.
Stefan in B&W.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stefan D. on The G Route.
Stefan D. on The G Route.

Comments on The G Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
May 12, 2008

Only 8 or 9 years ago this route was done - rumor has it that Glenn may possibly name it soon. Till then it is - The G Route.
By Stefan Doucette
May 13, 2008

Fantastic route!
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 21, 2010

For an extra pump/challenge:
Start all the way down in the hole.
Like way down, sit start style.

Rock is a little funny in places,
but man it makes it like 80 ft to the chains:)
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 17, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Many thanks to the Thunder Ridge crew for the time and work put into these canyons. This place is the epitomy of fun climbing.... I haven't been able to stop thinking about the G Route since I first hopped on it!
By kirkadirka
From: Boulder
Mar 26, 2012

Just a heads up to those attempting/belaying below the route: the final jug near the ancors is definitely loose. I felt it flex as I climbed to the anchors and could wiggle it as I was lowering off and inspecting furhter. Be careful, and have the belayer be out of the way. It is a pretty sizeable chunk of rock.

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