The Funky Chicken
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looking down while hanging off huge jugs partway u...
Another high quality face route that is unusually well featured for Laurel and should not be missed. This might just be my favorite route at Laurel at this point! The best way to describe the features on this wall is to say that it is more like something you'd find in Tuolumne than right here in Carolina. There are 2 variation's for starting the first pitch, with the left one being the original easier start, and the right one being a little better, straighter, and harder. Both variations are very cool, as are both pitches.
This route even stays dry when most of the other lines in the Canyon are wet -- both pitches were climbed on a day following an all night rain.
Update: the crux is slightly harder now due to a small foot hold crystal breaking sometime recently.
The left (original) start: Start on top of a very short flake in the seasonal creek bed and make a couple moves up onto the long bushy ledge and belay here. P-1 Climb past 2 bolts and medium sized cams to a ledge with finger sized cams/tricam. Sling this very long, and move right to a line of bolts (6) leading off the right side of the ledge. Watch rope drag at the first couple bolts of this next section. Follow these bolts to the anchor 180'.
The right-hand start: Locate the larger flake/chimney feature uphill and about 30' right (just shy of the fixed rope in the gully). Chimney up to the ledge and follow a line of 3 bolts straight into the original line which is 5 more bolts to the anchor. 160' This variation makes this pitch an absolute must-do classic!
P-2 Climb up and right past 3 bolts to good holds, and good gear. Large tricam (3-3.5) works well here, but is not necessary. Traverse right to the corner and follow it up onto the easier and highly featured face -- some of the biggest granite holds you'll ever pull on! Climb to the top on jugs and good gear to a 2 bolt anchor just over the lip. 180'
Rap route with 2 ropes.
Between "Non-profit Profiteer" and "Taste's Like Chicken".
Normal LK rack, including tricams from black to possibly the large white (3.5). Long slings for first pitch. No cams bigger than 2 inches are really needed.
BETA PHOTO: This topo shows 4 different routes. The Funky Chi...
P-2 Climbs amazing holds on swirls of rock with h...
Jofo leading the juggy pitch 2.
From: Menlo Park, CA
Apr 30, 2012
Great route! the right hand first pitch is all bolts, no gear and awesome steep slab. the second pitch has got long stretches of huge jugs with lots of horizontals. Highly recommended route along with the 3 other routes on that section of wall right of the hypocrites corner. Thanks for establishing this and so many other great routes at LK recently, Nathan!
By Mike Reardon
May 5, 2013
I seconded this route a while back and am still thinking about how great of a route it was!
By Stephen Scoff
From: Columbia, South Carolina
Mar 6, 2014
Indeed Andrew, this is an amazing route! The first pitch (direct start) is intense. Those who pay their dues get to enjoy the stupendous 2nd pitch.
Quite a testament to Nathan's eye for a line and bolting skills.
From: western NC
Mar 7, 2014
Glad you guys enjoyed this route. It's one of my all time favorites. Kinda reminds me of Shortoff on the second pitch.