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The Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Climbing By The Brooks S 
Cool Runnings S 
Crickets in the Cabbage S 
Dance of Shiva, The S 
Disclaimer, The S 
Full Male Deal, The S 
Slick Willard S 

The Full Male Deal 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ike Deal and Brett Pierce?
Page Views: 1,898
Submitted By: Ben Glover on Jul 13, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Craig working the bulge.

Description 

This is the 3rd route on the left side of the amphitheatre just prior to the headwall (past Slick Willard and Climbing by the Brooks).

8-10 feet up the route should be a stud w/o a hanger & nut. The climbing is 5.easy here so either bring your own or run it out to the 2nd bolt. The easy slab climbing will steepen as you climb. The first pitch crux will be 1-2 bolts below the anchor. If you're like me you can look forward to blasting the crux and landing on a slabbed section of rock below.

Both pitches are listed at 95 feet (so a 50 meter might just make it). Credit the rating and length to the S.M.G. authored R&I mini guide.

Protection 

A rack of draws should be fine.


Photos of The Full Male Deal Slideshow Add Photo
 Craig putting in work to find the right beta.
Craig putting in work to find the right beta.
Get it right or take flight.
Get it right or take flight.

Comments on The Full Male Deal Add Comment
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By abc
Apr 20, 2007

Originally called this the "Full Meal Deal" to honor Ike, but somehow the name was lost in translation when I gave Stew Green the details of it for his Rock and Ice article.

I like Stew's name for it better than the original.
By kjdetlor
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 18, 2007

First pitch is REALLY run out, it's easy climbing, but still a little bit nerving for sure. I totally would not want to fall during the crux moves either, cause I'm pretty sure that that fall wouldn't be very clean.
By abc
Sep 18, 2007

I've been meaning to go back and add a bolt, so if you were to blow it at the crux you wouldn't deck on the slab below. If someone gets to it before me, you are more than welcome to add one and only one bolt where it is needed.
By Erik Tullberg
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 20, 2008

Anybody put up that extra bolt? Any additional beta would be great. We hope to do this in the coming weeks.
By Brandon Schirm
From: colorado springs, co
Sep 9, 2008

This climb was well protected if you have an active belay. I unclipped all the bolts before the bulge and put a long sling on the bulge bolt. The climbing before the bulge is 5.7 at the most, but a long draw on the bulge bolt and a short one on the next bolt will keep you off the slab (with a good belay).
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 17, 2009

I don't think the bolt has been added... but it's not too bad. I wasn't sweating too hard. Pretty sustained once you get off the slabby section. Fun route. Also, I pulled a large flake off today after the third bolt of the second pitch. Stuff is still coming off this.
By GLD
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I attempted to lead the crux and backed out, I had previously seen two others just before me fail one taking a rough hit on the slab. We went to the right before the crux. Going to the left looks much easier (in fact one of the guys did this), but it also looked too far off route. I liked the idea listed below about unclipping all but the last two bolts and get a very active belay, but that wasn't really an option for me.

In terms of bolting, I think it could be better done. The fix is 1 of 2 things. (1) Move the bolt before the crux up higher (or add a slightly higher bolt).
(2) Resolve the do you move right and up to the bolt at the crux or left to the bolt at the crux and put the crux bolt closer to either side.

Eventually one of the other fellows climbed it and I TR'd it. I voted 11b, since the crux felt that way and it is sustained for about 8 ft after the crux giving you a very sustained 15-18ft of climbing.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Aug 25, 2013

Way fun! Incorporates a mix of slab, runouts, and face climbing! Pretty solid 10+ when it steepens up. Great warm up for the 10d and 11c below. The crux is after the slab runout section where it steepen outs. Would have been a cool onsight if it didn't rain the night before and during the climb... that definitely made it a bit more challenging. A must do if you don't mind a bit of runout.
By Monica Jones
From: CO
May 30, 2014

Easily linked into one pitch with a few runners. Good pitch!