The Full Male Deal
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This is the 3rd route on the left side of the amphitheatre just prior to the headwall (past Slick Willard and Climbing by the Brooks).
8-10 feet up the route should be a stud w/o a hanger & nut. The climbing is 5.easy here so either bring your own or run it out to the 2nd bolt. The easy slab climbing will steepen as you climb. The first pitch crux will be 1-2 bolts below the anchor. If you're like me you can look forward to blasting the crux and landing on a slabbed section of rock below.
Both pitches are listed at 95 feet (so a 50 meter might just make it). Credit the rating and length to the S.M.G. authored R&I mini guide.
A rack of draws should be fine.
Craig putting in work to find the right beta.
Get it right or take flight.
|Comments on The Full Male Deal
Apr 20, 2007
Originally called this the "Full Meal Deal" to honor Ike, but somehow the name was lost in translation when I gave Stew Green the details of it for his Rock and Ice article.
I like Stew's name for it better than the original.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 18, 2007
First pitch is REALLY run out, it's easy climbing, but still a little bit nerving for sure. I totally would not want to fall during the crux moves either, cause I'm pretty sure that that fall wouldn't be very clean.
Sep 18, 2007
I've been meaning to go back and add a bolt, so if you were to blow it at the crux you wouldn't deck on the slab below. If someone gets to it before me, you are more than welcome to add one and only one bolt where it is needed.
|By Erik Tullberg|
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 20, 2008
Anybody put up that extra bolt? Any additional beta would be great. We hope to do this in the coming weeks.
|By Brandon Schirm|
From: colorado springs, co
Sep 9, 2008
This climb was well protected if you have an active belay. I unclipped all the bolts before the bulge and put a long sling on the bulge bolt. The climbing before the bulge is 5.7 at the most, but a long draw on the bulge bolt and a short one on the next bolt will keep you off the slab (with a good belay).
|By Phil Lauffen|
May 17, 2009
I don't think the bolt has been added... but it's not too bad. I wasn't sweating too hard. Pretty sustained once you get off the slabby section. Fun route. Also, I pulled a large flake off today after the third bolt of the second pitch. Stuff is still coming off this.
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
I attempted to lead the crux and backed out, I had previously seen two others just before me fail one taking a rough hit on the slab. We went to the right before the crux. Going to the left looks much easier (in fact one of the guys did this), but it also looked too far off route. I liked the idea listed below about unclipping all but the last two bolts and get a very active belay, but that wasn't really an option for me.
In terms of bolting, I think it could be better done. The fix is 1 of 2 things. (1) Move the bolt before the crux up higher (or add a slightly higher bolt).
(2) Resolve the do you move right and up to the bolt at the crux or left to the bolt at the crux and put the crux bolt closer to either side.
Eventually one of the other fellows climbed it and I TR'd it. I voted 11b, since the crux felt that way and it is sustained for about 8 ft after the crux giving you a very sustained 15-18ft of climbing.
|By Jordan Hirro|
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Aug 25, 2013
Way fun! Incorporates a mix of slab, runouts, and face climbing! Pretty solid 10+ when it steepens up. Great warm up for the 10d and 11c below. The crux is after the slab runout section where it steepen outs. Would have been a cool onsight if it didn't rain the night before and during the climb... that definitely made it a bit more challenging. A must do if you don't mind a bit of runout.