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The Full Effect 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 581
Submitted By: Jeffrey LeCours on Jul 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

Midway up the low angle ramp leading to the upper routes, you should be able to clip your first bolt from the ramp. Fun, moderate starting moves will lead you to a slab stance below the trihedral cutout. For a more difficult climb head straight up on finger locks and crimps, otherwise, thin feet to large holds out right will give access to your final bolt before the anchors. Crux moves through the trihedral led to big holds to clip the anchors. A kneebar may help you get a closer look at what technique works best for you through the crux. Nice airy falls.


Location 

Midway up the low angle ramp leading to the upper routes, look to your right and you will see the starting bolts


Protection 

6 bolts to anchors



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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 20, 2009

nice description Jeff... Did it today... way fun and it should see more traffic...

I thought the top out was quite fun and worth doing, i belayed at the tree and continued up the 5.9 trad pitch to the cliff top for a fun 2 pitch route... more on that soon :) ...

By Eric Leclerc
Sep 22, 2013

Just too sad not enough people climb this one.
In my opinion, this is one of the nicest 10c in Rumney.
The guidebook only gives one star but it should get a 3 star.

By ward smith
Nov 30, 2013

Chris Smith recently added clippies to the anchors, so get on it!

By Derek Jf
From: Onset, MA
Jun 24, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

An overlooked route with classic potential IMO. Awesome holds, bouldery crux moves, sweet finish. If you climb 5.10 don't let the first bolt sway you from this line - CLIMB THIS ROUTE

By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 13, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

If you go the direct route, straight up from under the pod and then through it, it seems hard at the grade. Getting in and out of that pod is not easy!