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The Fukness 

Hueco: V11- Font: 8A

Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Ian CB
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 833
Submitted By: Ian CB on Nov 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: RV at the Heartbreak Hotel project. Ed: The be...


Starting with a jug a chest level on the left arete, climb rightwards through the face on seams and crimps to a not so bad top out. Get on this thing, it's a fun hard problem.


From the south shore beach, walk along the train tracks north. Near the middle of the lake there is fencing below a talus field. Look up, and The Fukness is on the Heartbreak Boulder, facing you, 40 or fifty feet up in the talus.


I used 3 big pads and a small. The landing is quite jumbled.

Photos of The Fukness Slideshow Add Photo
Ian on the first move.
Ian on the first move.
Looking at the lake from The Fukness
Looking at the lake from The Fukness
Making the big move to the good edge.
Making the big move to the good edge.
This shows the steepness of the wall.
This shows the steepness of the wall.
The Fukness starts on the left arete on a jug, and...
The Fukness starts on the left arete on a jug, and...
Looking up at The Fukness from the train tracks
Looking up at The Fukness from the train tracks

Comments on The Fukness Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 6, 2014
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 19, 2013

Nice work Ian! Chris is going to move my pics over when he can.
By Ian CB
Nov 19, 2013

Thanks Remo. Yeah people should try this. The landing is reminiscent of the Fat Racoon Boulder, and it's as good. I think there's several ways to do it too.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 22, 2013

Now that is a club approved name if it ever there was one! Nice! Psyched to see you guys uncovering so many great boulder problems over the last few years. It's like the golden age of bouldering at DL. Peace and fuk-nes. SteveS.
By Ian CB
Mar 29, 2014

After busting the long move to the edge, power left into a gaston, and then the top. And that's Fukness Direct.. maybe V10 or 11. IMO better than the original, and no harder.. maybe? This thing needs some action.
By Oklobzija
Oct 30, 2014
rating: V8- 7B

Looks like this one was another one on the Downrate list for this year. V11 to V8 according to Peter.
By Ian CB
Oct 30, 2014

Time will tell.. People should try this. The moves are really fun and with a few pads it's totally safe. Morning shade, afternoon sun. I'd recommend getting on it while it's shadey.
By madisonchoss
Oct 30, 2014

Time will tell. I did this in a couple tries in full sun / t-shirt weather. There are very few (if any) v9s at the lake I think I could do in comparable conditions. Felt about as hard as Mean Gurlz with my sequence. That's the background on how I formed my opinion, in case anyone was wondering.

All that being said, this thing climbs a lot better than it looks. Short approach and fun moves. People should get on it.
By Aaron Wait
Nov 2, 2014
rating: V10 7C+

Excellent! I had fun projecting this!

Finally did this today via the direct version described by Ian. The direct version has fun and powerful movement! It also seemed to myself the most striking and obvious way to do this problem.

When I did play around with beta for skipping the gastone it felt hard. I'll have to go back and play around some more.

This problem felt harder than soupmaker, fearful symmetry, and alpine club. I also needed good conditions to send. That's the background on how I formed my opinion.
By Oklobzija
Nov 3, 2014
rating: V8- 7B

The problem with this problem is that you guys all climb it differently. Today I did it it both ways, neither are v11 or v10. The grades are out of hand in this hood and the problems are crazy. I did like this boulder. I used a toe hook to swoop up to the big edge to the right of the gaston with my left hand and a toehook on the start. After that use another toehook to release, then bounce to the jug. The other way was the same as Ian's video and was not v11 not 10. I did try ivory (2nd day) and it is sharp. I think that ivory is the standard for V10 at the lake. Yes, V10 that would be 10.5 anywhere else in the country and we should compare against it. I haven't tried peters problems but lets just start here- ivory is the hardest at the lake and it's 10.5.
By madisonchoss
Nov 4, 2014

Sick that the cross worked for Ya. I did it that way but found myself stretched and the release feeling harder than the other ways. I figured the taller guys might crush that beta.
By Ian CB
Nov 4, 2014

Mr. Nic, I think you are off base and wrong with most things you just said. Also I believe your reasoning is irrational. I will just leave it at that.
By Oklobzija
Nov 4, 2014
rating: V8- 7B

Ok, I was being ridiculous but let's say V11 for ivory. It's still harder than anything else I've done here and way harder than this problem!

Some day we will find consensus.. Some day.
By Ian CB
Nov 6, 2014

I'm glad you guys say how hard you think these are.. When putting up a line it is hard to judge... Not just sometimes but all the time. And that is how we get a consensus.
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