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 ADVANCED
Birthday Rocks Boulders
Select Route:
Big Foot Arete 
Birthday Arete 
Dude, where's my keys? 
Fukness, The 
Heart Attack Project 
Ice Queen 

The Fukness 

Hueco: V11- Font: 8A

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V11- Font: 8A [details]
FA: Ian CB
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 312
Submitted By: Ian CB on Nov 19, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: RV at the Heartbreak Hotel project.

Ed: The be...

Description 

Starting with a jug a chest level on the left arete, climb rightwards through the face on seams and crimps to a not so bad top out. Get on this thing, it's a fun hard problem.

Location 

From the south shore beach, walk along the train tracks north. Near the middle of the lake there is fencing below a talus field. Look up, and The Fukness is on the Heartbreak Boulder, facing you, 40 or fifty feet up in the talus.

Protection 

I used 3 big pads and a small. The landing is quite jumbled.


Photos of The Fukness Slideshow Add Photo
Ian on the first move.
Ian on the first move.
Looking at the lake from The Fukness
Looking at the lake from The Fukness
Making the big move to the good edge.
Making the big move to the good edge.
This shows the steepness of the wall.
This shows the steepness of the wall.
The Fukness starts on the left arete on a jug, and climbs up and right through the face.
The Fukness starts on the left arete on a jug, and...
Looking up at The Fukness from the train tracks
Looking up at The Fukness from the train tracks

Comments on The Fukness Add Comment
Show which comments
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 19, 2013

Nice work Ian! Chris is going to move my pics over when he can.
By Ian CB
Nov 19, 2013

Thanks Remo. Yeah people should try this. The landing is reminiscent of the Fat Racoon Boulder, and it's as good. I think there's several ways to do it too.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 22, 2013

Now that is a club approved name if it ever there was one! Nice! Psyched to see you guys uncovering so many great boulder problems over the last few years. It's like the golden age of bouldering at DL. Peace and fuk-nes. SteveS.
By Ian CB
Mar 29, 2014

After busting the long move to the edge, power left into a gaston, and then the top. And that's Fukness Direct.. maybe V10 or 11. IMO better than the original, and no harder.. maybe? This thing needs some action.