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Unsorted Routes:

The Fukness 

Hueco: V11- Font: 8A

Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Ian CB
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,076
Submitted By: Ian CB on Nov 19, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: RV at the Heartbreak Hotel project. Ed: The be...


Starting with a jug a chest level on the left arete, climb rightwards through the face on seams and crimps to a not so bad top out. Get on this thing, it's a fun hard problem.


From the south shore beach, walk along the train tracks north. Near the middle of the lake there is fencing below a talus field. Look up, and The Fukness is on the Heartbreak Boulder, facing you, 40 or fifty feet up in the talus.


I used 3 big pads and a small. The landing is quite jumbled.

Photos of The Fukness Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian on the first move.
Ian on the first move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at the lake from The Fukness
Looking at the lake from The Fukness
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the big move to the good edge.
Making the big move to the good edge.
Rock Climbing Photo: This shows the steepness of the wall.
This shows the steepness of the wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Fukness starts on the left arete on a jug, and...
The Fukness starts on the left arete on a jug, and...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at The Fukness from the train tracks
Looking up at The Fukness from the train tracks

Comments on The Fukness Add Comment
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By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 19, 2013

Nice work Ian! Chris is going to move my pics over when he can.
By Ian CB
Nov 19, 2013

Thanks Remo. Yeah people should try this. The landing is reminiscent of the Fat Racoon Boulder, and it's as good. I think there's several ways to do it too.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 22, 2013

Now that is a club approved name if it ever there was one! Nice! Psyched to see you guys uncovering so many great boulder problems over the last few years. It's like the golden age of bouldering at DL. Peace and fuk-nes. SteveS.
By Ian CB
Mar 29, 2014

After busting the long move to the edge, power left into a gaston, and then the top. And that's Fukness Direct.. maybe V10 or 11. IMO better than the original, and no harder.. maybe? This thing needs some action.
By Ian CB
Oct 30, 2014

Time will tell.. People should try this. The moves are really fun and with a few pads it's totally safe. Morning shade, afternoon sun. I'd recommend getting on it while it's shadey.
By madisonchoss
Oct 30, 2014
rating: V8 7B

Time will tell. I did this in a couple tries in full sun / t-shirt weather. There are very few (if any) v9s at the lake I think I could do in comparable conditions. Felt about as hard as Mean Gurlz with my sequence. That's the background on how I formed my opinion, in case anyone was wondering.

All that being said, this thing climbs a lot better than it looks. Short approach and fun moves. People should get on it.
By Aawait
Nov 2, 2014

Excellent! I had fun projecting this!

Finally did this today via the direct version described by Ian. Fun and powerful movement! V10 perhaps? This problem felt harder than soupmaker, fearful symmetry, and alpine club. I also needed good conditions to send.

When I did play around with beta for skipping the gaston it felt hard. I'll have to go back and play around some more.
By madisonchoss
Nov 4, 2014
rating: V8 7B

Sick that the cross worked for Ya. I did it that way but found myself stretched and the release feeling harder than the other ways. I figured the taller guys might crush that beta.
By Ian CB
Nov 4, 2014

Mr. Nic, I think you are off base and wrong with most things you just said. Also I believe your reasoning is irrational. I will just leave it at that.
By Ian CB
Nov 6, 2014

I'm glad you guys say how hard you think these are.. When putting up a line it is hard to judge... Not just sometimes but all the time. And that is how we get a consensus.

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