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 ADVANCED
The Northwest Passage
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
'Lectra Crack T 
Boar War S 
Cozened Stone S 
Double D's S 
Forty Six and 2 S 
Friend Zone, The S 
Lateralus S 
Pretty Good Face S 
Very Nice Crack T 

The Friend Zone 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Lee Hansche 9/11/10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 803
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Drillin bolts on my newest Creation... The Friend ...

Description 

Fun route! Solid rock, Fun moves on really interesting holds. And it's right next to one of the best cracks at rumney. if you dont like hiking, don't come out here but if you don't like crowds, it's worth it.

Reach up to the nice rail and hand traverse left till you can make crux moves up and right and in to the better holds. Climb big moves up the steep wall on good holds. One last tricky section makes the top less than easy.


Location 

20 feet left of Very Nice Crack.
It's nice to have another route to play on up here when you come to try very Nice Crack.


Protection 

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of The Friend Zone Slideshow Add Photo
Lily finishing up the 2nd ascent of the friend zone...
Lily finishing up the 2nd ascent of the friend zon...
Baldy looking for the next good hold...
Baldy looking for the next good hold...
Lily pinching down low...
Lily pinching down low...
Baldy, going for it...
Baldy, going for it...
stylin'
stylin'
Baldy just shy of the very interesting sidepull near the top of the route...
Baldy just shy of the very interesting sidepull ne...
Comments on The Friend Zone Add Comment
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 8, 2013

This was looking pretty filthy when I was looking at it this weekend, also, the area was hit hard by blowdowns. There is a big tree leaning against the top of Very Nice Crack, a tricky one to figure out how to get down.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 9, 2013

bummer... it wasnt even super filthy when i first found it haha....

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 8, 2013

Ward brushed this up a bit while we were checking it out the other day, Lee. Very Bouldery! The move up from the horizontal at the bottom to the gaston and match is a crank unless you are tall. Watch out for spines if you use other holds! The dead tree leaning on the cliff was removed too, as well as the one at the base of B-b-buttress, thanks to an intrepid chainsaw wielder.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 8, 2013

it is a bit easier if you have the reach there but Lily did it without much fuss and she's not a tall one... glad you got on it and thanks for the cleaning Ward!
i really enjoy the moves on this one... wish it was a bit longer...

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 8, 2013

I'll have to get on it again when I am feeling fresher. I would have liked to see Lily's beta.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 9, 2013

If we are thinking of the same move I believe we both used the same beta... but it was a little farther away for her of course... from what i remember it was all about controlling the gaston while rocking over a high foot, though it has been some time since ive been on it... i remember that section feeling technical rather than brutish as is the way for both lily and i ;)

do let me how it goes next time... and chime in on the grade, that was a tough one for me to decide on...

By ward smith
Oct 16, 2013

It was the end of a long day when we got on it, but I was the only one to free climb it despite a couple of other strong climbers trying. I'm thinking more like 11d but I need to do it again when fresh. Pretty good, but needs a bit more love. One star on a three star scale.

Ward