This [area] is relatively easy to find as it finishes on a large boulder perched atop a column of rock roughly 250-275 feet tall. As you are following the trail into Oak Creek it would be most efficient to keep your eye out for a faint trail near the mouth of the canyon that breaks off northwest at a large, scoop of vanilla ice cream boulder roughly the size of five golf carts or 8 donkeys of relatively equal mature stature. Continue the approach as for Johnny Vegas and its neighbors but cut north earlier - when you are even with the column of rock with the boulder on it - and aim for the southeast section of the column where you will find an obvious varnished right facing corner. Red Zinger will be visible directly to the east across a small gully.
Approach as for Solar Slab.
Browse More Classics in The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle:
Byrd Pinnacle Left 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
The Friar 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet
Xyphoid Fever 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Red Zinger 5.10+ Trad, 2 pitches, 110 feet
Featured Route For The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
Red Zinger 5.10+ NV : Red Rock : ... : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
An Indian Creek style crack climb which would probably get three stars if it were longer or didn't have a big ledge in the middle. The climb follows a left facing corner in a west facing alcove about five minutes walk east of Solar Slab gully.P1: 75', 5.10. Mostly fun, 5.9 jamming and laybacking with a technical stem/reach at 3/4 height. This pitch has several stances/rests and ends at a rap station on a big ledge.P2: 35', 5.10+. Though Swain rates these two pitches the same, P2 is harder, p...[more] Browse More Classics in NV