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 ADVANCED
Stableboy Rock and Vicinity
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Chow, Chow, Chow 
Dead Legends 
French Tickler, The 
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The French Tickler 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Marc Le Menestrel
Season: Winter
Page Views: 778
Submitted By: tcamillieri on Mar 1, 2010

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TCamillieri on The French Tickler. Photo: Elizab...

  • East Spur is accessed by Guided Tour Only
  • Some areas require a guide.

  • Description 

    This route is the obvious line in the center of Stable Rock. Begins on the large sloping jugs at head height and climbs straight up through small crimps and sloping gastons to a committing lunge at the finish.

    Beta: Begin on the sloping jugs and take the first 1/2 pad crimp with your right hand. Heel up on the sloping jugs and reach up left hand to a good but slightly sharp gaston. Stand up and get a horrid right hand crimp, then back step the 1/2 pad crimp with your right foot and lunge for a decent crimp out and right from your right hand (crux). Left foot goes on a good smear onto up your left hand (coolest move ever) and lock off to the first gaston sloper. Move your feet out left to get the second right hand gaston sloper. Left foot up to the decent crimp and lunge for the sloping jug at the top out. Mega-classic. My favorite line in Hueco.

    Location 

    This route is in the center of Stable Rock and is through a small passageway on your right as you approach the Gunks.

    Protection 

    3 pads spotters. There is a large hole that drops off 15 feet at the starting holds although it is HIGHLY UNLIKELY that the climber will fall down there caution should be taken.


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    By Tim Steele
    From: Bishop, CA.
    Dec 27, 2010

    Actually Marc Le Menestrel put this up c. 1993 or 1994 as I recall. That is where the name came from.