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This is an exceptional crack route on the northeast corner of Chicken Head Ranch. Cruise a crack in the corner to the left and then transition right to the main, thin line. This can feel slightly sketch here, but a #3 Camalot on a sling in the corner should work fine. Bomber (but slightly painful) finger locks lead to an even thinner crack where crimpers just so happen to be perfectly placed outside the crack. Make a long reach to a fist/hand jam and then you have cruiser climbing to the bolted anchor. The climbing was pretty continuous, but no move felt harder than 5.11b. I'm not sure why it's rated 5.12 in the Anderson guide. It is good though and is definitely worth doing, so don't let the guidebook grade scare you off.
This ascends the Northeast corner of Chicken Head Ranch, just right of a low-angled, bush-choked, right-facing corner (Tim's Route). The striking thin crack 25 feet up is hard to miss.
Mostly thin gear with the ocassional hand-sized piece, and it'll eat up nuts. I took doubles to a 0.5 and one from #0.75-3 Camalot and had plenty of cams on my harness left over.
May 23, 2014
Crumbly rock, dirty, and rather uninteresting climbing.
Move along, it's not worth the trouble.