Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Chicken Head Ranch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bart's Route S 
Beaks and Feet S 
Chicken Spit S 
Cluck Cracks T 
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 
Crystal Key, The S 
Extra Crispy S 
Finger Lickin' Good S 
Fracture, The T 
Funky Chicken S 
Mini-Slab S 
Mini-Splitter T 
Raining Chickens S 
Super Chicken S 
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 
Thunder Chicken S 
Unjust S 
Wishbone Dihedral S 
Yellow Dot S 

The Fracture 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Jason Haas on Jun 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an exceptional crack route on the northeast corner of Chicken Head Ranch. Cruise a crack in the corner to the left and then transition right to the main, thin line. This can feel slightly sketch here, but a #3 Camalot on a sling in the corner should work fine. Bomber (but slightly painful) finger locks lead to an even thinner crack where crimpers just so happen to be perfectly placed outside the crack. Make a long reach to a fist/hand jam and then you have cruiser climbing to the bolted anchor. The climbing was pretty continuous, but no move felt harder than 5.11b. I'm not sure why it's rated 5.12 in the Anderson guide. It is good though and is definitely worth doing, so don't let the guidebook grade scare you off.

Location 

This ascends the Northeast corner of Chicken Head Ranch, just right of a low-angled, bush-choked, right-facing corner (Tim's Route). The striking thin crack 25 feet up is hard to miss.

Protection 

Mostly thin gear with the ocassional hand-sized piece, and it'll eat up nuts. I took doubles to a 0.5 and one from #0.75-3 Camalot and had plenty of cams on my harness left over.


Comments on The Fracture Add Comment
Show which comments
By nicelegs
From: Denver
May 23, 2014

Crumbly rock, dirty, and rather uninteresting climbing.

Move along, it's not worth the trouble.