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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini-Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallow Tail T,S 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

The Fracture 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 8,003
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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Karsten at the crux of The Fracture on a beautiful...

Description 

100 feet uphill from "The Fang" is this thin crack/flake. Climb this to it's end.
Another 5.7 pitch leads to the Eastern Terrace.
A walk left takes you to the "Grand Illusion".

Protection 

Pro to 1.5".


Photos of The Fracture Slideshow Add Photo
Little brother in non-repose with granite backdrop. <br /> <br />April 2009
Little brother in non-repose with granite backdrop...
Moving through the crux lock - now that's micro beta for you, that is.
Moving through the crux lock - now that's micro be...
The Fracture
The Fracture
James checks out the crux under the loom of the Loaf.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano
James checks out the crux under the loom of the Lo...
Getting up there... a few wet spots on the climb in early March.
Getting up there... a few wet spots on the climb i...
In all its glory
In all its glory
First time leading the awesome fracture.
First time leading the awesome fracture.
The Fracture on East Face of Sugarloaf
BETA PHOTO: The Fracture on East Face of Sugarloaf
Toprope on the Fracture
Toprope on the Fracture

Comments on The Fracture Add Comment
Show which comments
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 6, 2007

outstanding thin crack with short reachy crux on poor feet. I used aliens from green to orange, and a blue-green hybrid is a good crux piece.
By Dennis
Aug 20, 2007

Gorgeous crack. There are several good small nut placements. Tried the face to the left afterwards. Starts with fun mantels and then blanks out to super thin face climbing. Spit me off..... but fun!
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 19, 2008

The face to the left is "Pinch a Loaf" FA Petch '04 or '05 I think.

I gave it a feeble attempt one day. Petch came walking by and said it was shoe and temperature dependant. Unfortunately for me, it seems to be talent and skill dependant as well.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 28, 2009

A beautiful line. This is a great route to push your limit, since you can get in gear just about everywhere. Load up on the finger-size pieces if you really want to sew it up. It was a bit wet yesterday (2/27/09).
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 25, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Area classic. One definitive crux, for feet at the crux step high on the face and use the micro edge or leverage off crack edge with right foot. Don't forget to use the good foot out to the left once you get up.

Either way, the crux is solid .10d, yet only one or two moves.

Great gear the whole way up and solid finger locks!