|Sugarloaf, East Face
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100 feet uphill from "The Fang" is this thin crack/flake. Climb this to it's end.
Another 5.7 pitch leads to the Eastern Terrace.
A walk left takes you to the "Grand Illusion".
Pro to 1.5".
Little brother in non-repose with granite backdrop... Moving through the crux lock - now that's micro be...
James checks out the crux under the loom of the Lo... Getting up there... a few wet spots on the climb i...
First time leading the awesome fracture. BETA PHOTO: The Fracture on East Face of Sugarloaf Toprope on the Fracture
From: Oakland CA
Feb 6, 2007
outstanding thin crack with short reachy crux on poor feet. I used aliens from green to orange, and a blue-green hybrid is a good crux piece.
Aug 20, 2007
Gorgeous crack. There are several good small nut placements. Tried the face to the left afterwards. Starts with fun mantels and then blanks out to super thin face climbing. Spit me off..... but fun!
From: Oakland CA
Feb 19, 2008
The face to the left is "Pinch a Loaf" FA Petch '04 or '05 I think.
I gave it a feeble attempt one day. Petch came walking by and said it was shoe and temperature dependant. Unfortunately for me, it seems to be talent and skill dependant as well.
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 28, 2009
A beautiful line. This is a great route to push your limit, since you can get in gear just about everywhere. Load up on the finger-size pieces if you really want to sew it up. It was a bit wet yesterday (2/27/09).
From: San Francisco
Mar 25, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Area classic. One definitive crux, for feet at the crux step high on the face and use the micro edge or leverage off crack edge with right foot. Don't forget to use the good foot out to the left once you get up.
Either way, the crux is solid .10d, yet only one or two moves.
Great gear the whole way up and solid finger locks!