The Fourth Wise Man 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Sam Schmetzer, Matt Myers. 9-28-2012 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | MattMyers on Sep 28, 2012 |
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Sam and Matt on the FA!
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Description Start by steming in the corner then commit to the face staying left of the bolts and finish up to the anchors. Still a little dirty so be careful.
Location The almond colored hangers left of Three Kings.
Protection Sewn up with 6 bolts, chain anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The Fourth Wise Man (5.7), Frustration Creek
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| Comments on The Fourth Wise Man |
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By kennoyce
From: Clearfield, UT
Oct 9, 2012
rating: 5.8
| Fun route with fun moves. I only gave it one star because it is still quite dirty, but with some more traffic it will clean up and be a two or three star route.
For some fun, the route can also be done without using the left hand side of the corner at all, this bumps the rating to probably 5.9, but it makes the route feel much more sustained and once clean, would definately be three stars. |
By MattMyers
Oct 17, 2012
| Thanks for the input Ken! I have cleaned it alot but it is still kinda dirty, the bottom holds have changed/broke. a couple more cleaning runs and it should be good. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 19, 2013
rating: 5.7
| Very well protected climbing up a left-trending feature to a definite crux at the last bolt. Taller climbers will have a much easier time reaching the good holds and consequently find it a tad easier.
Also, what's up with the two sets of anchors at the top? |
By MattMyers
Mar 21, 2013
| Thanks for the cool topo Chris! The left anchor is one of my unfinished projects called birthday blunt. |
By MattMyers
May 6, 2013
| About the rating, If you use the dihedral its 5.7 or climbing using only face holds goes about 5.9, both ways are fun! |
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