The Fornicator  5.11c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11c/d [details] FA:  Adams and T. Anderson New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  richard magill on Feb 16, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Luna Kyly on The Fornicator, 11c.

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Private Property issues MORE INFO >>> The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited. Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite. Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is between "Real Men of Genius" and "The Adultress" is "The Fornicator".

It is an excellent route with some 10d/11a slabbing that leads to a crux around the 6th bolt. The crux involves some insecure sidepulling and footwork to work through an overhanging apex. This is difficult to onsight but not so bad if you know where you are going.

After the crux, there is a no hands rest and then the climbing stays overhanging on big, juggy huecoes (10+).

The route doesn't quite pack the multiple crux punch of "Real Men of Genius", but it is pretty sweet.

Protection 

A dozen bolts to anchors.

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Luna Kyly on The Fornicator, 11c.

Luna Kyly on The Fornicator, 11c.