Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Mail 
Backslash 
Barbie Doll Arete, The 
Bit by Bit 
Bottlenecks 
Clean Dan 
Coffee Break with Joe 
Cold Turkey 
Coniferous Types 
Crazy Fingers 
Cruising Lane 
Detour, The 
Doc's Little Brother 
Dr. Michael Solar 
Duh Dihedral 
Early Bird Special 
Fine Line 
Fork in the Road 
Formula, The 
Foxtrot 
Funeral March 
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) 
Hang Ten 
Highway 61 
Inverted Vee 
Iron Pony 
Kashmir 
Kubla Khan 
Lady Fingers 
Lunar Avenue 
Lunar Lander 
Masterbator's Edge, The 
Milk and Honey 
Milk Dreams 
Mirage 
MRJR (aka MB III) 
Parallels 
Pool of Blood 
Positively Fourth Street 
Rhadamanthus 
River Of Darkness 
Road Narrows 
Sign of the Cross 
Snail Mail 
Srinagar 
Tampon 
Tango 
Tanqueray 
Terminal Velocity 
Texas Two-Step 
Three Lane Highway 
Toprope Right of Formula 
Trip Itch 
Tryptich 
Whatever 
Willow World 
Working Class Hero 
X 
Xanadu 
Zap Snack 
Zip Code 

The Formula 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson, 1980
Fixed Hardware: 5 Lead Pins, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 938
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
corner----

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

It's hard to miss this route when walking up to Rincon from the Cirque of Cracks on the West Ridge. Located on the prow just left of the Pool Of Blood dihedral is The Formula. The equation is this: a burly one move wonder over the roof into the dihedral + stemming to the upper roof + turning it onto the slab = an exciting pump. The pin at the start is a bit flexy, but its possible to place a #2 Rock just above it.... Rap off of slings around a small tree. I think the route is worthy of a new bolt anchor over the upper roof!

Addendum: there is a new bolt anchor.


Protection 

Sm/med nuts, 0.75"-.4" cams, 3.5" piece (equipped with 2 pins). Rap slings on high tree (junk!).



Photos of The Formula Slideshow Add Photo
corner-
corner-
this having to choose a comment different from any other picture you've submitted really sucks!!
this having to choose a comment different from any...
corner---
corner---
corner-----
corner-----
Comments on The Formula Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Archer
Nov 30, 2003
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

The 2-3 move boulder problem seemed as hard or harder than wendego, apple strudel, or the contest. An interesting finish protected by old knifeblades, keeps you on your toes. The anchor, slings off two small trees, should be replaced.

By Lance Cockwood
Feb 12, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Great route

By Stan Lanzano
Feb 23, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Powerful, technical crux down low, fun stemming up high. Some questionable rock in a few places, mostly on the upper roof. Thanks for installing the bolted anchor!