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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Formula, The 
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Masterbator's Edge, The 
Milk and Honey 
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MRJR (aka MB III) 
Pool of Blood 
Positively Fourth Street 
River Of Darkness 
Road Narrows 
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The Formula 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson, 1980
Fixed Hardware: 5 Lead Pins, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 938
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


It's hard to miss this route when walking up to Rincon from the Cirque of Cracks on the West Ridge. Located on the prow just left of the Pool Of Blood dihedral is The Formula. The equation is this: a burly one move wonder over the roof into the dihedral + stemming to the upper roof + turning it onto the slab = an exciting pump. The pin at the start is a bit flexy, but its possible to place a #2 Rock just above it.... Rap off of slings around a small tree. I think the route is worthy of a new bolt anchor over the upper roof!

Addendum: there is a new bolt anchor.


Sm/med nuts, 0.75"-.4" cams, 3.5" piece (equipped with 2 pins). Rap slings on high tree (junk!).

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By Chris Archer
Nov 30, 2003
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

The 2-3 move boulder problem seemed as hard or harder than wendego, apple strudel, or the contest. An interesting finish protected by old knifeblades, keeps you on your toes. The anchor, slings off two small trees, should be replaced.

By Lance Cockwood
Feb 12, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Great route

By Stan Lanzano
Feb 23, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Powerful, technical crux down low, fun stemming up high. Some questionable rock in a few places, mostly on the upper roof. Thanks for installing the bolted anchor!