The Formula 5.11d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Mark Rolofson, 1980 |
| Fixed Hardware: | 5 Lead Pins, 2 Belay Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001 |
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this having to choose a comment different from any...
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Description It's hard to miss this route when walking up to Rincon from the Cirque of Cracks on the West Ridge. Located on the prow just left of the Pool Of Blood dihedral is The Formula. The equation is this: a burly one move wonder over the roof into the dihedral + stemming to the upper roof + turning it onto the slab = an exciting pump. The pin at the start is a bit flexy, but its possible to place a #2 Rock just above it.... Rap off of slings around a small tree. I think the route is worthy of a new bolt anchor over the upper roof!
Addendum: there is a new bolt anchor.
Protection Sm/med nuts, 0.75"-.4" cams, 3.5" piece (equipped with 2 pins). Rap slings on high tree (junk!).
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By Chris Archer
Nov 30, 2003
rating: 5.12b
| The 2-3 move boulder problem seemed as hard or harder than wendego, apple strudel, or the contest. An interesting finish protected by old knifeblades, keeps you on your toes. The anchor, slings off two small trees, should be replaced. |
By Stan Lanzano
Feb 23, 2008
rating: 5.12a
| Powerful, technical crux down low, fun stemming up high. Some questionable rock in a few places, mostly on the upper roof. Thanks for installing the bolted anchor! |
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