The Force V9
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| Type: | Boulder |
| Consensus: | V9-10 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Brad G on Dec 22, 2007 |
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Brad Gobright defies the Force.
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This problem starts on the obvious Thriller crimp start and goes out left. The Crimps are small but the feet are positive which makes the climb a good bit easier then Thriller.
Location From the cocaine corner/ wine boulder area head down the trail towards lower Yosemite falls. The boulder is on the left side of the trail and the problem faces north east. It should be chalked up pretty good.
Protection a pad
By Jon McCartie From: Edmond, OK Apr 27, 2009
| From what I've heard, this problem no longer exists in its FA form. It now goes at v9 and is called "The Farce" after a glued hold was pried with a crow-bar, making a much larger hold and lowering the grade. |
By Will S From: Joshua Tree Oct 16, 2012
| The hold Jon is talking about is the first hold out left after the starting matched hold. Many people use this hold when doing Thriller too, but it wasn't used on the FA of Thriller (but doesn't really make Thriller any easier though). |
By skinny legs and all From: Salt Lake City, Utah Apr 4, 2013
| First ascent by Jerry Moffatt in 1991 at the grade of 8a. He called it the best new boulder problem he has made the first ascent of. Shortly after, John Bachar ripped off two glue reinforced flakes in the name of ethics making the problem easier. Bachar said he used fingernail clippers to open up the flakes so he could get his fingers behind them and yank them off. See Rock and Ice #50 in the editorials for the full story. |
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