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The Fool's Progress 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scott Brockmeier, 1989
Page Views: 315
Submitted By: Rob P. on Aug 12, 2011
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Description 

This is the bolted line between Ex Nihilo and Rapprochment. Climb the right facing corner for a few bolts, then make some bouldery moves to the right arete (crux) and continue up to a small stance on a horizontal ledge. Shake out here, because the pump will continue as you climb the slightly overhung face using small sequential edges. Very fun climb, get on it!

This climb is rated 5.11 in both guide books, but seems much harder than other 5.11's at the cliff. Maybe 12a?


Location 

This is the right facing corner between Ex Nihilo and Rapprochement. Look for bolts!


Protection 

Bolts. I placed one stopper on the lead between the 1st and 2nd bolt. It would probably take a blue alien as well. If you blow it clipping the second bolt without additional pro, you will deck.



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By Leviticus Maximus
From: mahtomedi,MN
Sep 18, 2011

I climbed this route the other day. It was pretty fun but I didn't place a nut inbetween the first two bolts. Definitely no joke 12a off the ground on the first 3 bolts. Run out between the last and second to last bolt also. I placed a BD .5 at the last ledge I believe.

By Peter L Scott
Sep 20, 2011

FA circa 1989 by Scott Brockmeier