|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 350'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||John Turner & Hugh Tanton|
|Submitted By:||Greg Kuchyt on Nov 14, 2010|
|Comments on The FM||Add Comment|
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By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Nov 14, 2010
|On Pitch 3 you make committing moves off the belay with no gear. There is a chance to get a less than ideal RP in before making the most committing of moves, but I question whether an RP will hold with only 10-15 feet of rope out. If you see water running down from above the belay, you might consider just bailing at that point. If the corner and ramp are wet, you might be in for a scary pitch and you may find it hard to reverse the moves back to the belay from where you get your first look at the ramp.|
By matt matera
Sep 30, 2013
So not much is written about this climb and I did it this weekend and loved it. Yes, a bit scary at times, but nothing a solid leader with a good head couldnt handle.
For P1, the belay is two bolts and cannot be seen from the ground.
On P2, first go right and up the corner (gear available) and traverse back left over the belay to the other corner (gear also available for the upcoming traverse, double ropes helpful). Then step down and around the edge to the left. A fall here would be interesting but not fatal at all as the last gear placement is great. then go up a series of corners heading up and left. When you get to a section that looks very dirty, go left around the arete to the hidden anchor (also two bolts). You can rap to ground from here with 2 60m ropes. Don't know if one would do it.
P3 is heady off the bolts. Go up the corner and about 15 feet higher is a horn/block on the left that can be slung and secured with a nut. After, that the ramp is great for gear. P3 is short and ends on the right side of the huge roof at the bottom of the giant corner. The anchor here is very sketchy (one bolt, and a slung fin). Also keep in mind that the rocks at this belay are loose and directly above the start.
P4 goes up the dirty corner (2 pitons, hollow rock) then traverses left to the arete and scales the right side of the arete. There is a piton around the corner of the arete and I suggest you clip it as protection thereafter is finicky. When you get to the grassy ledge, the tree anchor is about 20 feet recessed. Be mindful of your feet going up the grass as a fall would be nasty. Overall a fun route worth doing to the top.
Two raps with 60m ropes gets you to the ground (rap from top anchor through giant roof to top of P2; angle straight down, don't go down the dirty corner to the right). We had no issues pulling ropes.