This route is the parchments big brother. Start with the same two bolts of the Actual Parchments, fighting through strenuous sharp pockets and crimps (V6 or 7) up and left to a hard throw to a jug. Get a couple of shakes, and launch up and right using a pocket, multiple bumps of some heneous slopers and finger locks, to a big throw to a flat one handed ledge. Swim your way up the last 10 feet with big throws between big jugs to the top.
good, hard climbing.
on the overhanging 40 degree wall next to the parchments.
7 bolts to station.
Jan 25, 2011
I have not been on the route but I have been sizing it up for an attempt. I believe a key hold has broken off near the end of the crux.(Disclaimer: I didn't break it) Before breaking it was always ticked and i think it is the flat "jug" the description refers too. (from the ground it previously looked like a large slot.) Can anyone confirm this? It seems that with the hold gone it makes the last throw about a foot longer. Any beta on the hold/route would be appreciated.