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The Fly 

YDS: 5.14d French: 9a Ewbanks: 35 UIAA: XI ZA: 36 British: E10 7c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14d French: 9a Ewbanks: 35 UIAA: XI ZA: 36 British: E10 7c [details]
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 6,273
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 13, 2007

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Jason Kehl on the first boulder of The Fly.

Description 

The Fly is two bolts long and that the route ends on the E-Ticket ledge about twenty feet up the wall. There is an undone project (partially) bolted to the left called Super Fly. To call this climb a route is a stretch, since there is probably fifteen feet of actual climbing on it. The first holds are bad rounded crimps, followed by a long thin sidepull, followed by a sloper that is used to clip the second bolt.

This route has been bouldered.

I have not ever been on this route, just thought it warranted a spot in the database, if anyone has climbed this route, speak up, tell us about it, let's update the description.


Location 

Obvious Super-Hard short face in the middle of Waimea cliff


Protection 

Two Bolts to Anchors on E-ticket Ledge. Stick clip and pull hard. This route has been both bouldered and sport led.



Comments on The Fly Add Comment
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By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 18, 2009

Tony Lamiche, 3rd ascent of The Fly



Kevin Jorgeson sending The Fly at Nor'Easter '08

Be sure to watch it in High Quality!!

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 15, 2010
rating: 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b

I bolted this thing as an open project. I was looking for something extreme that I still thought would go and I could work on. At the time, the idea of piling huge stacks of pads under a problem was not as popular as it is now and because of it's steepness and size of the holds I couldn't really get in, clean and work the moves on TR without at least one directional. My friends thought I was nuts and that nobody would be able to climb it. It was really cool when Dave, Gomez and the others were able to get it, though I still think Dave's beta was whacked. I linked from the long side pull to the top, but was never able to get the dyno move from the start crimps up to the gaston, even after training to do 5 pullups with a heavy pack off them. It's sick to generate that much power and precision off those holds.

By climbnplay
Dec 13, 2011

hmm...downgrading something you can't link the moves on. classic!

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 13, 2011
rating: 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b

If you are referring to my grade, that was more based on people who have done the route since Graham and seemed to think it was a little shy of full 14d. If I remember right, Luke (Gomez-) called it V13 when I asked him, which is very approximately 14c. I also worked on it and linked enough to believe Dave had bad beta for the top half when he climbed and graded it (not unusual for him at the time), which I linked and he thought was hard. With my climbing ability, nothing I linked should have felt hard for him with the right beta, lol.

See www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/flyboys/

So add your estimate if you think you are more qualified. That is why we have consensus grades.

archived NEB mention of the FA archive.newenglandbouldering.com/news/news400.html