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 ADVANCED
Chimney Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Ambition T 
Flue, Right, The T 
Flue, The T 
Raven's Reach T 

The Flue, Right 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Wolfe and Dick James, January 1969, FFA: Gib Lewis and Tobin Sorenson, 1975
Season: Afternoon Shade
Page Views: 385
Submitted By: Adam Kimmerly on Aug 24, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

Climb the discontinuous crack system about 10' right of The Flue. Start up a few face moves to a right-slanting crack, then up a vertical flare. Climb through the crux bulge via the flare and face holds, then up easier terrain through discontinuous shallow cracks to finish at the bolt anchor atop The Flue.

Protection 

Small to 2". Hybrid/offset cams may be helpful in places. Bolted rap anchor at the top.


Comments on The Flue, Right Add Comment
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By Adam Kimmerly
Aug 24, 2009

The crux comes early on this one, and while the gear is pretty good there, the stances are pumpy. The piece that will protect the final moves of the crux is in a flare and is hard to see from the balancy stance you can reach it from. Above the gear is sparse but adequate. Fun climbing though, and a worthy TR if you're on The Flue. I felt it was stout for 10b though, and the R rating seemed appropriate.
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 6, 2014

The best route at the crag to top rope, imo
By taymizu
From: California
Dec 2, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Mostly small active pro, offset cams would of been helpful after the hand crack, but an offset nut was able to suffice. The route has adequate protection and does not feel runout.