An obvious narrow ramp bisects the main face of Diamond Head, rising from right to left at about half- height. The Flaw climbs this ramp. Approach by scrambling up ledges to the right, then across a narrow ledge with trees. From a stance where the easy scrambling ends, climb up and left about 30 feet, place good gear, then downclimb onto the ramp. From here, it's about 90 to 100 feet across the ramp, sometimes up on the wall above the ramp, sometimes frictioning on the ramp itself. Belay on the ledge system below the second pitch of Shibumi.
This is a unique and exciting pitch, with sustained 5.8 and 5.9 climbing, just enough pro and many surprises.
Bring a large set of brass nuts, wires and cams up to 3 inches. Ball nuts would be useful. Extra slings and quickdraws (or double ropes).
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
If there is anything that I thought I needed on this pitch, it was a few yellow Camalots.... I broke the trigger wire on the first attempt at placing mine, then found 2 more places where I wanted it later besides. Other than that, the climb was actually very good. Unique and fun, but certainly NOT for the tentative leader or second.