The Flatiron 

Mega-Classic boulder problem of Devil's lake.The following is a link to a picture of John Gill on it in 1958-59. An awe inspiring man.www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=9721

Thw well-researched "Stone Crusade," by John Sherman, says: "...the most famous Gill problem is the Flatiron, the route he chipped and lived to forget..."

I know John Gill. Like how people like John Sherman get down on others. Sherman is an idiot.

Gill is quoted in the book about enlarging a hold on the flatiron. It was not a fabrication of Sherman's. Sherman is very anti-chipping, etc (and if you have read anything he has authored it is obvious) but I don't feel he included it to disrespect Gill in anyway. In the quote Gill speaks of his regret, how it never occured again and why. It may have been included in the book as a fact of history and to show Gill's (the father of modern bouldering) stance on chipping holds to educate climbers of today. I bouldered with Sherman at the lake and had beers at the good old Dale (RIP) - he is definately a character and a very talented writer but not an idiot (IMHO).

Out-of-line comment, perhaps. Still, I'm sick and tired of climbers and their attitudes (in general). I'm against chipping as well, but I'm really tired of the constant mud-slinging or belittling of one's activity. You know, trad is better than sport, this person did this or didn't do that, it wasn't a "valid" redpoint. Who cares? Only morons actually care about this stuff. Just shut up and climb, I say. So, I'll remove my remark about Sherman, promptly.

Yo man, settle down. I including info about the chipped hold in the description of the Flatiron simply to add to the historical record of that boulder problem. There was no "mud slinging" going on. The fact: Gill chipped the hold, and he admitted to it. There has been no ethical, moral, or other judgements based on this fact. Whether or not you agree with Sherman seems a very peripheral issue.

Gill's such a powerhouse that he probably modified lots of holds just by grabbing them.Whether or not the route hase a modified hold doesn't detract from the fact that the route is absolutely incredible. I'll be damned if I can do that problem yet!!! I can't believe how many times i've stopped there and tried it.

And he's still going at 65!

Try it with out bouldering matts or half in the bag or both

this is a stellar boulder problem by john gill,he admits to chipping it ,but so what,its still killer,also consider the year he was doing it.the right hand variation is a bit harder( v ? rating)we use to get pretty jacked here and do it in our tennies.

Flew in from New England to see my parents and decided to take a day and do some bouldering at Devils Lake. In particular to attempt "The Flat Iron". I had been to Devils Lake before when I was young but I wasn't a climber back then so I hardly noticed the properties of quartzite. I knew I was in for something special when I my hiking boots lacked to find friction on some of the stones going up the staircase to the problem. When I finally reached the problem out of breath (yeah, and I thought I was in shape) I instantly wished I had brought a pad or a spotter. Conditions were perfect. 40-45 degrees and low humdity. Not a soul in sight ( weekday ). I felt physically in the best shape to date. After two hours I was happy about the fact that I hadn't seen anyone. I managed to make it to the first vertical crack hold a grand total of 3 times but was unable no matter what I tried to get my foot on the killer foothold ( I got close once ). I humbly put my hiking boots back on with very sore fingers and went in search of easier problems. What a great problem, I look forward to coming back and giving it another try. I never did see another boulderer that day.

I remember this being one of the first "true" boulder problems I ever did... Way before pads- I had a blanket or mud:)

I finally got around to this one. Classic for the historical context. Also, rumor is the chipping was to clean a sharp part of the hold not to create a hold where none existed.

True nick, that is exactly what gill told Ian.