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Monster/Flatiron
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Unsorted Routes:

The Flatiron 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, Chipped, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: John Gill
Page Views: 3,773
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jan 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Katie gives some scale to the problem.

Description 

The first rock an out of breath climber encounters upon reaching the East Rampart is the Flatiron, a perfect little boulder reminiscent of its much larger counterparts in Colorado. Two parallel cracks spill down from the top, and the difficulty of the problem lies in attaining these cracks. Easier variations exist on both sides. One hard variation uses only the right crack. Climb this problem on a busy summer weekend, and be prepared to feel like an animal in a zoo.

I hesitate to list this as a "chipped route" despite the rumors that Gill deliberately broke a loose flake out of the upper pocket in the right crack. Gill was bad ass, and it seems unclear why he would chip an already large hold on the easier upper part of the problem. Does anyone know if the rumor is true?


Protection 

Crash pad, chalkbag, and/or climbing shoes



Photos of The Flatiron Slideshow Add Photo
She sent a couple goes later.
She sent a couple goes later.
Carol Black on the Little Flatiron 1974.
Carol Black on the Little Flatiron 1974.
Satermo on the Little Flatiron, October 09.
Satermo on the Little Flatiron, October 09.
steve s. and his addidas
steve s. and his addidas
Here's a KILLER sequence of Photos of the route. These shots came from my 2nd successful attemp at the route. <br /> <br />Took me YEARS and finally some Beta before I could finish the thing
Here's a KILLER sequence of Photos of the route. T...
Nic getting in a quick send.
Nic getting in a quick send.
The Monster formation
BETA PHOTO: The Monster formation
This is a 1981 photo of Curt Shannon on the "Little Flatiron" problem.  Gill did indeed alter a sharp hold on this route with a piton hammer.  It was not, however, in the upper right crack, as stated above--rather it was in the upper left crack.
This is a 1981 photo of Curt Shannon on the "Littl...
Super fun, Little Flatiron, October 09.
Super fun, Little Flatiron, October 09.
The Flatiron.
The Flatiron.
Nice evening at the Little Flatiron
Nice evening at the Little Flatiron
Comments on The Flatiron Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 16, 2014
By Terry Kieck
Jan 31, 2003

Mega-Classic boulder problem of Devil's lake.The following is a link to a picture of John Gill on it in 1958-59. An awe inspiring man.www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=9721

By Joe Block
Jan 31, 2003

Thw well-researched "Stone Crusade," by John Sherman, says: "...the most famous Gill problem is the Flatiron, the route he chipped and lived to forget..."

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 1, 2003

I know John Gill. Like how people like John Sherman get down on others. Sherman is an idiot.

By Terry Kieck
Feb 1, 2003

Gill is quoted in the book about enlarging a hold on the flatiron. It was not a fabrication of Sherman's. Sherman is very anti-chipping, etc (and if you have read anything he has authored it is obvious) but I don't feel he included it to disrespect Gill in anyway. In the quote Gill speaks of his regret, how it never occured again and why. It may have been included in the book as a fact of history and to show Gill's (the father of modern bouldering) stance on chipping holds to educate climbers of today. I bouldered with Sherman at the lake and had beers at the good old Dale (RIP) - he is definately a character and a very talented writer but not an idiot (IMHO).

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 4, 2003

Out-of-line comment, perhaps. Still, I'm sick and tired of climbers and their attitudes (in general). I'm against chipping as well, but I'm really tired of the constant mud-slinging or belittling of one's activity. You know, trad is better than sport, this person did this or didn't do that, it wasn't a "valid" redpoint. Who cares? Only morons actually care about this stuff. Just shut up and climb, I say. So, I'll remove my remark about Sherman, promptly.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 5, 2003

I included info about the chipped hold in the description of the Flatiron simply to add to the historical record of that boulder problem. There was no "mud slinging" going on. The fact: Gill chipped the hold, and he admitted to it. There has been no ethical, moral, or other judgements based on this fact. Whether or not you agree with Sherman seems a very peripheral issue.

By Chad Berger
Feb 6, 2003

Gill's such a powerhouse that he probably modified lots of holds just by grabbing them.Whether or not the route hase a modified hold doesn't detract from the fact that the route is absolutely incredible. I'll be damned if I can do that problem yet!!! I can't believe how many times i've stopped there and tried it.

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 10, 2003

And he's still going at 65!

By rich bechler
Mar 30, 2004

Try it with out bouldering matts or half in the bag or both

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 25, 2005

this is a stellar boulder problem by john gill,he admits to chipping it ,but so what,its still killer,also consider the year he was doing it.the right hand variation is a bit harder( v ? rating)we use to get pretty jacked here and do it in our tennies.

By Anonymous Coward
May 4, 2005

Flew in from New England to see my parents and decided to take a day and do some bouldering at Devils Lake. In particular to attempt "The Flat Iron". I had been to Devils Lake before when I was young but I wasn't a climber back then so I hardly noticed the properties of quartzite. I knew I was in for something special when I my hiking boots lacked to find friction on some of the stones going up the staircase to the problem. When I finally reached the problem out of breath (yeah, and I thought I was in shape) I instantly wished I had brought a pad or a spotter. Conditions were perfect. 40-45 degrees and low humdity. Not a soul in sight ( weekday ). I felt physically in the best shape to date. After two hours I was happy about the fact that I hadn't seen anyone. I managed to make it to the first vertical crack hold a grand total of 3 times but was unable no matter what I tried to get my foot on the killer foothold ( I got close once ). I humbly put my hiking boots back on with very sore fingers and went in search of easier problems. What a great problem, I look forward to coming back and giving it another try. I never did see another boulderer that day.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 10, 2010

I remember this being one of the first "true" boulder problems I ever did... Way before pads- I had a blanket or mud:)

By Tradoholic
Apr 5, 2013
rating: V4 6B

I finally got around to this one. Classic for the historical context. Also, rumor is the chipping was to clean a sharp part of the hold not to create a hold where none existed.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 5, 2013
rating: V4 6B

True nick, that is exactly what gill told Ian.

By Skyler F.
From: La Crosse, WI
Jul 15, 2013

Tonight was a special night indeed. A solo bouldering trip out to the Lake ended with a send of possibly my longest standing boulder project, the Flatiron (V4). This thing has been spitting me off for so long and I can't keep count of how many time I've tried it. But tonight was the end of a long, and at times, frustrating process. I made the last revisions to my beta and finally reached the upper hold in the right crack that marks the end of the crux. I knew from that point I could finish it and there was no way I'd be letting go. Even though tonight I reached my ultimate goal of climbing the Flatiron, I think back and see my growth as climber from when I first tried the route some 4 years ago to now. Sometimes I get caught up in the whole mess of projecting, but looking back, it is truly rewarding to have gone through the process and I am grateful for each day I get to climb, send or not.

By Leo Hski
Apr 16, 2014

I met John Gill about 1985-ish at a climbing film festival in the UK- Buxton? Anyway over beers with John and Ken Wilson I had the temerity to ask about the rumored chipping. John, class act, was very straightforward about it- he remembered trying to clean a loose flake in the crack which busted out. So chipped, yes, deliberate, kinda, kinda not.

Chipped or not it's still a classic problem put up by a legend.