|East Gate Buttress
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My all-time favorite at the grade in Little Cottonwood, this route can be "Quite a grunt to get to and tricky to find," according to the Ruckman guide, but it's well worth it. Approach via Tingey's Terror to Tingey's Torture--traverse east 25ft from the bolted anchor atop the third pitch of Tingey's Torture--for a fun, long link-up or bushwhack your way up ledges to the base of To Air Is Human (.10d) or Under Fire (.10), granting access to the low-angle, splitter first pitch (5.6). The second pitch, however, is THE pitch... Scramble up the easy ramp to the base. Jam the perfect handcrack. Commit to a wild undercling/lieback out the first flake left to a stance in a squeeze, then again back right along the top of the airy second flake--CLASSIC! Two sets of bolted anchors appear above; use the newer, upper anchor to belay/descend.
If approaching from Tingey's Torture, traverse east from the top of third pitch toward the arete, then downclimb--easy, but exposed--to the belay ledge atop The Flakes. Rappel from two bolts--a single 60m rope just reaches the ledge below. To descend, a series of fixed rap anchors due east of The Flakes puts one back on the ground.
Bring a standard rack. Doubles in off-fingers to hand sizes are useful, but not necessary; a large 4.5" cam protects the wideness.
Sep 26, 2008
Please Note: there is no fixed intermediate anchor between the two pitches of The Flakes. I've always rapped using a single 60m rope, but if descending the line of anchors due east of the route, be careful! With rope stretch, one just barely reaches the third and fourth set of anchors (if counting the anchors atop the route). Be sure to take a good look at some of the other stellar lines on the east gate; scramble along the base to reach the main trail to the gate boulders.
Sep 29, 2008
A 70 works a lot better here. This really is one of the coolest around. Maybe its because you have to find it and once you do you're a ways up? I like doing "plasma" for a warm-up then "to air is human" for really fun approach pitches. It makes a nice .10 circuit.
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 3, 2008
Best single pitch I've done in all of Wasatchland. The approach, exposure, steepness and nature of the feature you're climbing (1/2" sheet of detached granite, picture a dead vertical Zion Curtain) make for quite an intimidating route.
No individual hard move but overall quite pumpy and WILD!
We belayed from a gear anchor a bit above the bushes growing on the low angle ramp. Uses the whole 70m rope and some. There's a sling anchor in the bushes to rap to the next station (top of El Guapo). We left a biner on it as the tape that converted the existing biner into a locker wasn't looking too hot.
As a side note, any info on the crack that branches left and meets up with the route at the offwidth? Looks amazing, undercling to tips-lieback...
|By Todd Green|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 16, 2009
Sweet, sweet set of flakes. Much taller than Boissal's pics make it out to be. (He must have used a French lense. :P ) There is a set of glued anchors due east of the bush-belay. With two 70's tied together you can do a single rap clear down to the gully.
|By steve santora|
Oct 17, 2009
Wow, finally got up there. We did 6 or 7 pitches of Tingeys Terror and finish just left of the rap bolts for the flakes....We top roped the flakes which pumped Mike and I pretty good. Crux seemed to be the start of the second part. then liebacked the flake. Awesome Smiles all around/ It looks to eat 1's 2's 3's and 4's; for pro...bring a few of each can't wait to get back there. steve
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 18, 2009
Steve, a single set from BD .5 to 3 and a 5 or old 4.5 is all you need. Don't haul doubles up there, there are no good stances to place in the undercling/lieback sections. It's a place and punch it for a while type of line.
|By steve santora|
Oct 18, 2009
Rapping off east with a single seventy meter--- 3 raps is perfect. then a slog down the debris.....
May 13, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You can also traverse from the top of Tingey's Terror to reach the first pitch. There is a bolted arete (not sure what route it is) which separates the East Gate from the main Gate above Fudd ledge. Go up and traverse right below some trees to a bolted belay station, then do another easy traversing pitch (5.5) bushwhacking up a ledge to a flat area below some tumbled boulders. The first pitch starts above here after a short scramble in the splitter fist crack on the left side of the slab above.
I'd probably still recommend doing Tingey's Torture and just rapping down to the Flakes, but it's a bit quicker this way even if you have a crap pitch to get there.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Sep 25, 2011
A grunt to get there is right. We did the shwack approach from the top of the 3rd pitch of Tingeys. Ended up downclimbing a chimney then up a easy fat crack before jungling to the base of the 1st pitch fist crack. We only brought one set of cams like Boissal recommended which turned out fine but I had to backclean the #3 camalot a few times. Would have been nice to have at least 2 of those. Use one down low in the fist crack section then have another one handy for the upper flake. I placed a #4 camalot which was nice but there was a .75 placement below it so your call on that piece. We rapped to the belay anchor in the tree with a 70m, then one more back to the base of the 1st pitch. Tingey's really isn't that great so next time I'll try Tenesmus' suggestion of the two 5.10 pitches on the east gate to get there.
From: Midvale, UT
Nov 11, 2013
What a great route! The splitter 5.6 approach pitch is definitely worthwhile if coming from below, if only it were steeper! Spooky when you get to the upper lieback flake and can actually feel it flexing out.
+1 for single rack from #.5 - #3 and a #5 (can also squeeze a #4 in before you head up the initial handcrack)
|By Charlie S|
From: Ogden, UT
Nov 29, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
If only one wasn't so exhausted from the three approach pitches!
Seriously, if these were the first and second pitches straight off of the ground, there would be a line a mile long every weekend. A very worthy climb with fun moves.
I used singles in every size from #0.5-#5, except #2 which I used 2 of.
A 2nd #3 might have been nice, but not necessary.