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Palisades Park
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A Little Help From My Friends 
April Fools 
Box Lunch 
Burly Girls 
Captain Crunch 
Captain Hook 
Christmas Crack 
Corner Arete, The 
Dirty Dancing 
Elephant Crack 
Etheral Cathedral 
Exit Stage Left 
Face Of A Phantom 
Flake Face, The 
Flake, The 
Foton's Finish 
Hard Days Night 
Jumping Jack Flash 
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Kodiak Arrest 
Lady Fingers 
Lead This? 
Marginal Monster (M&M) 
Mickey's Mantle 
Micro Gulley 
Mister Green Jeans 
My Little Pocket Frog 
Nameless Arete 
Night of the climbing dead 
Nine to Five 
Nose, The 
Oh My Achin' Head 
Pharaoh's Revenge 
Pickin Pockets 
Posey's Pass 
Post Nasal Drip 
Snake Bit 
Street Fighting Man 
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Tim's Route 
Trivial Pursuit 
Unnamed 7 
Unnamed Arete 
Warp Factor 
Whip Me, Beat Me 

The Flake Face 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type:  TR, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
Page Views: 197
Submitted By: Geissler Golding on Jun 3, 2012
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G works final moves above the crux


The Flake Face begins on thin and reachy face moves which become progressively tougher through the middle of the bulge. It ends with a nuanced and balanced mantle-ish move over the bulge. Once you gain the top of the bulge/shield and can move comfortably, the climb is essentially complete.

This route feels harder than 5.11 until you unlock its mystery crux in the center of the shield/bulge. Definitely demands some accuracy and a bit of crimp strength.


Start about 4 feet left of Dirty Dancing. You should not have to use any part of the original Flake route (i.e. left facing side-pulls)


Top Rope. The new Dixie Cragger suggests using the anchors at the top of Dirty Dancing but in practice I would suggest using the anchors for The Flake instead (there will be a bit of rope rub on the bulge if you peel off)

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