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Palisades Park
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The Flake Face 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  TR, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Geissler Golding on Jun 3, 2012
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G works final moves above the crux

Description 

The Flake Face begins on thin and reachy face moves which become progressively tougher through the middle of the bulge. It ends with a nuanced and balanced mantle-ish move over the bulge. Once you gain the top of the bulge/shield and can move comfortably, the climb is essentially complete.

This route feels harder than 5.11 until you unlock its mystery crux in the center of the shield/bulge. Definitely demands some accuracy and a bit of crimp strength.


Location 

Start about 4 feet left of Dirty Dancing. You should not have to use any part of the original Flake route (i.e. left facing side-pulls)


Protection 

Top Rope. The new Dixie Cragger suggests using the anchors at the top of Dirty Dancing but in practice I would suggest using the anchors for The Flake instead (there will be a bit of rope rub on the bulge if you peel off)



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