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The Fix 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Alber, Rick Leitner, 1998
Page Views: 2,219
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 21, 2002

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Christa Cline turning the roof. More difficult mo...

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Description 

The Fix climbs on the right on the same wall as Killer Fish Taco on the South Face of Surprising Crag. The fix hauls over a small roof at 20 feet. Overall, I found this to be an enjoyable moderate on largely very nice granite. However, and here we go again with the big "however", I will ask the question whether the pocket in the middle of the face is natural. When I sank my fingers into a sinker pocket on granite, I almost choked. For my own ascent, I simply backed down to the very natural, horizontal seam and made the longer reach to a system of jugs, not a hard move. If the pocket has been manufactured, and I honestly could not be sure, then it seems quite meaningless. If it is natural, then it is a highly unusual pocket for Boulder Canyon granite. This was a fun route with good moves and good continuity, so it would be a shame if had been drilled.

Protection 

Seven draws and a rope.


Photos of The Fix Slideshow Add Photo
Routes on the left side of the south face of Surpr...
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of the south face of Surpr...
Christa Cline setting up for the roof.
Christa Cline setting up for the roof.
Christa Cline making a big step right on the diffi...
Christa Cline making a big step right on the diffi...

Comments on The Fix Add Comment
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jan 23, 2002

If you are correct, Alan, and I don't doubt that you are, then the chipping/drilling really is more than foaming at the mouth. The upper pocket is clearly unnecessary - the jugs can be reached easily from the thin seam (was it chipped?). If the hand traverse over the roof has been chipped then that also seems unnecessary since it will go with a short dodge to the left. Now in the case we are talking about, the chipping/drilling entails hacking a line down to 10+ where all of the chipping/drilling was utterly unnecessary. If this riles the climbing community in general, then this is not surprising, and I will side with the principle of solving nature's problems as they come to us - clean as a whistle. Isn't that our job?
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 29, 2004

I'd say 11a if you go directly over the roof, a little less if you move to the right, then hand traverse back left. I don't think I've ever seen such perfect holds in granite.
By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Mar 22, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I found this route to be fun despite the chipped holds. The roof is interesting and a little pumpy. The technical crux came after the roof when I tried to avoid using the possibly chipped pocket through the blank face (although the pocket is less obviously chipped than other holds higher on this route, maybe because spiders have inhabited it). I was able to avoid using chipped holds the whole way up until the jug just below the anchors. I did not know this was a chipped hold until I grabbed it. I think it would be fun and challenging to try to finish this climb without using that hold. It's a true bummer that someone chipped this climb, because it is pretty fun and obviously needed no modifications.