The Fire Sermon  5.10-

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches Consensus:  5.10- [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Geir on Nov 3, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

A four pitch route starting to the left of the wasteland. The first 2.5 pitches are a lot of fun.

Start to the left of the Wasteland below a large thread through with a number of slings wrapped around it.

1) Climb to the thread through, clip it, and make your way up to a scoop with bolts. Stem through the scoop (5.9-5.10, difficulty depends on your height) and continue straight up protected on gear and bolts. Arrive at a two bolt anchor on a good ledge left of the Wasteland.

2) Climb up the slab with bolts to another good ledge left of the chimney on Wasteland. Two bolt anchor. 5.9.

3) Two bolt lines head out from this stance. The right one is the Fire Sermon, the left is Teenage Wasteland. Follow the right bolt line up for approximately 80' on fun mixed climbing. At this point the climb bears sharply right and traverses directly under the Wasteland on bolts for about 40' to a two bolt anchor. 9+/10-.

4) Continue directly right, crossing the wasteland and making your way to a right leaning dihedral. Climb the dihedral (10-) and then head straight toward the top and another two bolt anchor.

Use the Wasteland rappels to descend.

While the first 2.5 pitches are good, the climb loses a lot after that. The traverse to the right under the Wasteland on pitch 3 feels contrived; it makes a lot more sense just to finish by going straight up on the Wasteland.

Location 

Start to the left of the Wasteland below a large thread through with a number of slings wrapped around it.

Protection 

Mixed, approximately 50% bolt protected. Cams up to #3 Camalot and stoppers.