The Fine Line
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BETA PHOTO: topo of first 5 pitches by Reid Dowdle, with some ...
A stunning line with superb position above a steep wall with blank rock to either side. After a short crux and one hard move on the first pitch, many fun 5.9 and easy 5.10 pitches up the single crack follow. Eventually it traverses onto the moderate upper pitches of the Beckey Route.
p1 was originally done by Fred Beckey, et al, then freed by the Lowes.
center of SW face
BETA PHOTO: topo of Direct Beckey by Reid Dowdle, with some ed...
BETA PHOTO: Elephant's Perch - SW Face, Right
14. The Thorn B...
BETA PHOTO: Topo for The Fine Line. I created this after an a...
Looking across the traverse to the Beckey
Wyatt does battle with the very demanding first pi...
One of the many cool dihedral pitches!
Lovely evening light
Annie following the intense 1st crux pitch.
Looking down on the wide slot at the end of the 3r...
Court coming up the 7th pitch.
Court leading the last pitch. The awkward slot is ...
Wide slot near the top of Pitch 3.
Looking down Pitch 3.
Brad coming up Pitch 5.
Lunch on Pitch 5. Halfway there.
Heady, exposed 5.7 taverse on Pitch 6. Good job B...
Very old bolt on Pitch 8. Beckey Bolt?
BETA PHOTO: Don't touch that flake. Will it be there this time...
|Comments on The Fine Line
|By Roger from Ouray|
Jul 30, 2008
The rating for this route is a mistake. It is 5.11+. The crux is by the last bolt, where the topo shows a "5.11a" move. In addition, if you climb straight up by the first bolt, it is solid 5.11. You can go left and climb up, and then go back right into the corner to reduce the difficulty. An exceptionally good route.
|By Brad Brooks|
Aug 2, 2008
I would second the notion that 11a is slightly off. If I would dare to enter a subjective rating, I would say 11b/c, but the crux is short and well protected, and the climb is outstanding.
|By Jim Donini|
Mar 25, 2009
I agree that the 5.11a rating is a sandbag. It's also on the first pitch which is usually quite cool in the morning shade. Make sure to warm up!
|By dave bingham|
Jun 29, 2010
Ditto. The original Becky / Fine Line feels considerably harder than "one move" of 11a to me. Original ratings tend to linger, but there's no shame in telling it like it is. 11c is my vote.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Jul 26, 2010
Amazing line! Super fun climbing. The 2nd pitch is by far the best pitch on the route. Finger locks for 110 feet with occasional hand jams and a fun wide section to the top. Jeff G.'s topo is spot on and was a great help. A couple thoughts: 1. Small gear is critical. Doubles in the TCU's sizes is adequate, with lots of nuts, but bring more if you have them. We rarely placed anything bigger than a #2 camalot. 2. On the last pitch, I highly recommend going up the 9+ crack on the left as shown on Jeff's topo. The right .9 crack around the bulge and up the 10a rp seam causes HEINOUS rope drag if you are trying to do it all in one pitch. 3. The descent gully is a breeze. Walk along the south ridge of the perch and down the south gully. One 80 foot rappel at the bottom is all that is required. 4. Pitch 4's wild flake is indeed wild! The mental crux of the route.
|By Monica Jones|
Aug 19, 2010
I took the right side up and fell right off the bat at the first bolt going to the jug. Damn! Came down and restarted for the redpoint. Super fun, I would call it 11b also, pumpy with multiple cruxes but lots of good rests to dissipate the difficulty. Favorite route we did!
|By Drew Bedford|
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 29, 2010
Definitely worth doing the first three or so pitches before joining the direct Becky.
|By dave bingham|
Jul 6, 2012
Historical correction: The "Lowe's"did the first clean (no piton) ascent, not the FFA. I think the first pitch was equipped and free climbed by Jeff Rhodes of Pocatello in the early 90's.
|By Mark SLC|
Jul 30, 2012
+ 1 for Drew's comment. We took his advice last year and it seemed like the best way to do it. The first pitches of fine line are sustained and amazing. Agreed the 11a first pitch felt harder, maybe 11+ or maybe it was just a tough warm up. Pitch 2 is phenomenal fingers. Pitch 3 to join the beckey we aided for time and as it was pretty full on stemming. After that, joining the beckey, pitch after pitch of some of the best granite 5.10 you will ever do. Smiling the whole way.
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2012
Incredible. We were really happy to do this one before Myopia, as Myopia is in my opinion a bigger day physically and mentally. One of the great granite walls in the states!
|By James Yates|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 7, 2012
This is a really fun climb... After climbing Myopia this route felt like a walk in the park in terms of seriousness and sustained difficulty (we were pretty whipped after myopia, and still had enough to cruise this stellar line the next day). That being said the first pitch of Fine line is considerably harder than the crux of myopia. However, it is way better protected and the rest of the route is not near as sustained. Fine line is just good clean safe fun... This would be a great climb for a 5.10 leader.
My two cents of the rating discussion... Ratings are subjective and will vary from person to person... I was shocked that I got the first crux pitch clean... I am 5'8" and I think the difficulty can be height dependent considering that I was stretched to the absolute max with the highest possible feet. Also, I thought it was hard in several spots leading up to the very thin crux. To put this into prospective for those Wasatch climbers... I think the crux of this pitch was considerably harder than concrete jungle (11c) and slightly harder than Fuego (12a). The crux sequence felt very similar in difficulty to All Chalk and No Action (12a). I dont care to assign it a subjective grade, I am just trying to give a few comparisons.
Sep 4, 2012
the giant hanging fang on p1 is very loose it was moving 2 to 3 inches very scary!Its easy to aid past this though.
Sep 22, 2012
I agree with heppnerd... We climbed the Fine Line just over a week ago. The big flake (see white cross on my photo) is just hanging free and moves about 3". You don't need to actually use it and can reach around it with a long reach to a finger jam off the big rock spike to the left of the base of the flake, without aiding. One thing for sure, if (when) it does come off, it WILL kill the climber...