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Turkey Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Cramps T 
Dash and Thrangle T 
Direct Hit T 
Eastern Front, The T 
Fiend, The T 
Finger Lickin' Good T 
Glen's Pancake T,TR 
Gobbler's Grunt T 
Great White Crime T 
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 
Jump Start T 
Nightime Madness T 
Rastafarian T 
Route 902 T 
Satyr's Asshole T 
Second Coming T 
Southern Comfort T 
Stewart's Crack T 
Straw Turkey T 
Tofonareeker T 
Tryptophane T 
Turkey Shoot T 
Vanishing Point T 
Wild Fire T 

The Fiend 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Sherwood & Don Doucette - '70s
Page Views: 1,115
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Nov 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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The Fiend.


The Fiend is three climbs right of Straw Turkey on the sunny side of Turkey Rock. It climbs a steep slab with a splitter finger crack leading to a small roof. Crank the roof, continue straight up on easier terrain, and finish up a wide crack in a right-facing corner.


Standard rack to 4". Fixed anchor. A 70m rope will reach.

Photos of The Fiend Slideshow Add Photo
Pennie Schwalm above the roof.
Pennie Schwalm above the roof.
Fiendishly good climbing.
Fiendishly good climbing.

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By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Mar 27, 2011

This is a fun climb with a lot of variety. IMO, this is a great climb for the competent sport climber who is just getting into trad and crack climbing as it requires a bit of crack technique but offers plenty of face climbing options as well.

I left a #11 BD stopper on the climb on 3/26/11. It's about 2/3 of the way up the climb. I discovered that my nut tool was on the ground, and it was getting too late to go back down for it. So, there's bootie to be had or, if you retrieve it and you're into good karma and beer, please send me a PM.
By Tim Banfield
From: Calgary, Alberta
May 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

60m rope makes it if you rap from the cables. It is close though
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