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Smooth Sole Wall - Right Side
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Fiend, The 
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The Fiend 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Wilson and Phil Warrender, June 1972
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: First bolt is a bit run out, to protect place cam ...

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Description 

The Fiend is a quality thin face route. When the rock exfoliated, it left a few long, 1/2 inch wide edges that you can use for traverses. A 20 foot runout up to the first bolt is quite scary - the runouts above are milder. Rappel 90 feet from a two bolt anchor on a ledge at the top. This climb is in the sun all day.


Protection 

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor



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By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 25, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R

A direct start (5.10 left variation or 5.11 right variation) has been done on toprope and climbs straight up to join the route at the 3rd bolt.

By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, Ca
Aug 23, 2013

5 bolts my ass! I only counted 3. Truly one of the scariest runouts I've encountered. The worst part is that I couldn't SEE the second bolt from the first because it is around a corner. It's there but...