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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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The Fever 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: T. Bubb, J. Meir, 11/2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 9, 2003

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Joseffa Meir coming out over the face and topping ...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route climbs up from the second pitch of Ignominity for a 3rd/4th pitch. Climb past the dual thin cracks of Ignominity traverse right into a second crack system, which is above an old bolt not shown in Rossiter's topo of the area. This is just right of what I believe to be his "10b variation" of P3 of Ignominity (pulling over at the bolt is ~12b). Climb the ensuing thin crack in the shallow corner for 30 feet to a ledge. From that ledge this climb continues.

The steep wall above has a system of thin fragile flakes going though it, tending slightly left after a good 2.5" round pocket. Protect the pocket with a 3" cam (Camalot is poor here, use something else) and consider stuffing a few nuts into the flakes if so desired (the only pro on the FA). Continue up and left through the flakes (delicate) to the ledge up top, finishing on a ledge between the final pitches of Sooberb and Long John Wall, maybe 10 feet left of the start of the route "The Knife."

Descend as from the ledge by moving towards the Sooberb Roof and rap from trees (3 raps or 2 raps with a 70m rope) or finish on "The Knife" (recommended) and descend as for Long John Wall.

The name of this route was derived by my partner and me from two points -- the first being that the route was done while I had the flu and was climbing with the namesake temperature increase. The second being 'the fever' to go climb when sick anyway...and added at that, 'the fever' to explore obscure new territory despite the poor-looking pro.

Post-note. The above is altered from the original post and is actually found to be parts of several different routes that pre-existed it.

Protection 

Sparse! A few small to medium nuts behind uneven thin flakes 1/2 way up (VS) or probably a good 3" Cam (blue Camalot was just too large, yellow probably would have been too thin. (Orange HB would have been near-perfect) for a pre-crux good piece in a clean, solid pocket. (S)


Photos of The Fever Slideshow Add Photo
Joseffa Meir shows the entire rack cleaned from 'T...
Joseffa Meir shows the entire rack cleaned from 'T...

Comments on The Fever Add Comment
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By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2007

The climb described above sounds like pitch three of Ignominity.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2007

I suppose it might be, but this climb was done on the blank face to the right of the 10b variation of Ignominity which is to the right of the normal P3 of Ignominity.... Which puts it pretty well right of where it should otherwise be. It is also, with certainty, S/VS, which is not the description in the Rossiter's book, which I suppose could be in error.

As well, according to my notes Jo and I later finished this pitch to the top, just left of 'the knife', which means left of the arete left of the top pitch of Sooberb, and right of the huge roofs over by the Sooberb's top pitch.
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2007

Tony, you'll have to show me on a photo. The photos of Mark Speiker you posted under Ignominity look like the regular third pitch.

The Rossiter-Ruwitch variation (?) described in the Falcon guide is not the line right of P3 Ignominity (i.e. the stray bolt leading to a tight right-facing corner). Dan Hare placed that bolt, and the climbing is certainly much harder than 5.10b.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 25, 2007

The only photos I have I posted on Ignominity. My comment there reads:
"There is a small crack in the topo in the 'new book' just right of the main line. That is the 10b _thin crack_ Further right of that, and DIRECTLY above the pitch to the roof with NO TRAVERSE is a horn above the roof. No crack to speak of in my memory. This horn is depicted in the old topo in Boulder Climbs South but not in the new one from Eldorado Climbs, strangely enough. Pull the roof at that horn, or spur, and continue straight up the vertical slab. That is 'Ignore Me.' ... I guess the rest should be considered a little dubious, as I just fished up the slides this year and it seems possible that they are from the normal varriation not from mine, as Mark and I TR'd that after we did the one we were on. I'm just going off of my notes and a sketch from years ago- the memory is vague."

After closer inspection, I believe you are correct about where the photos are of- They are the normal pitch. Mark and I rapped the route and TR'd the normal pitch and tried to figure out what was up with that stray bolt as well. So, to the right of the "thin crack", there is another horn that was shown in Boulder Climbs South, and you can pull up on that and then onto a runout face above it. There is no gear on it.
Now, 11 years later, I have no photos and even less memory. What I do have is the text I posted and a sketch in a book that shows a line just a few feet left of a "stray bolt" about 1/2 way between LJW and Suberb. The text scribbled in says:
"V2: Right through a roof @ slot to a horn, onto a (VS) slab. 'Ignore me' 5.10"
It also seems possible that how we pulled the roof was the normal way. I can't be sure 11 years later, but I know that I did it in a few different places in a few different ways, so there have to be a few variations.

My notes on The Fever say:
"104b- 'The Fever' Above 'Ignore Me' is a steep headwall with a left-trending system of fragile flakes. Crux pro is a 3" cam in a solid pocket. 5.9, S. 11/9/03 W/Joseffa"

I know I made a to-do about that cam with Jo, because I didn't place it and practically soloed the wall. So, if you find a deep 3" solution hole that is too narrow for a Camalot's wide frame, that is the line we took. We had her rack not mine that day, and the round hole that would have taken a HB or WC cam went unprotected because the old Camalots were too wide to fit in it. I am pretty certain I have slides of Jo following that line from above that are labled. Around 1999 I started labeling my slides.

And if that 3" hole is on Ignominity, then I just can't read the topo right, even after doing laps on the route. Which is also entirely possible. I'll try again with Jason, maybe today if the weather is good. We'll go up there and try to take a camera and straighten it out.

Thanks for the notes!