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Campfire Crag - South Face
Routes Sorted
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Banquet T 
Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 
Feast T 
Feminine Itch S 
Fetus, The S 
Fool's Ruby T 
Heart Slab T 
I Love my Marine S 
I Love my Marine, Direct T 
Impatience (AKA A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 
Kundalini- Linguini- Weenie T 
Lunch T 
McAloo Tikki TR 
McChoss TR 
McStain S 
Picnic T 
Shattered S 
Sokolove S 

The Fetus 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Resa Ashbacha
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,660
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jan 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Description 

Begin just left of Banquet. You may need to stick clip the first bolt if you're under 6 ft. The initial section is the crux, and very height dependent. If you're under about 6 feet tall it may shut you down. After that, fun moves on steep flakes lead to the top.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt belay/rap anchor.



Photos of The Fetus Slideshow Add Photo
The Fetus. The crack immediately to the right is Banquet (5.9).
BETA PHOTO: The Fetus. The crack immediately to the right is B...
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By Dave Cox
Jan 4, 2009

I was wondering about this thing. At 5'4" I was scared clipping the first bolt for sure.

By jima29
Mar 10, 2009

Fun climbing in cold weather. Well protected. Tough first clip if under 6ft.

By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 20, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

To echo what others have said, clipping the 1st bolt can be challenging if under 6' - I had to jump to clip the bolt which took a number of tries; a stick clip or stiff draw would have made it much easier.

The route itself involves engaging movement on suspect features which will no doubt clean up with more traffic. The last bolt seems somewhat forced especially as you end up in the crack at the end. One star out of five, more if it cleans up.

By i.reynaud
From: Long Beach, Ca
Dec 23, 2012

Todd Gordon showed up and gave us some beta for this route as we were setting up to climb. Spot two hand holds and jump on to the wall (if you or someone you are with is around 6' the first bolt can be clipped from the boulder). The crux is low consisting of delicate moves. This was a fun first lead of J-Tree.

By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Dec 30, 2012

direct start up the base face off hornish rail, without using low backwall or jumping across from the top of that. felt about 5.10b/c starting that way, tenuous

By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
May 19, 2013

Hold broke on me near the first bolt. Near the third bolt there is a really loose flake that is going to come off soon. Don't use it!!!

By mmurduff
Feb 3, 2014

Not only was the first move reachy, but I felt the route was overall a reach fest. And ya, many loose and crumbly areas, be aware.