The Feltcher 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Justin Cassels |
| Season: | any |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Mar 2, 2006 |
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Description The name on the plaque is Fletcher, although Bloom's guidebook refers to this as 'The Feltcher.' But why would anyone name a good route like that?
Climb to a corner and protect it, then climb into a band of questionable rock. Carefully place a 3" cam (or so) in a solid horizontal, then move up a thin crack, protecting that, and adding slings on the right. GO left out and up a flake (stemming crux) and left out the top of a small roof to a crack. Traverse back right (balance crux) and follow the thin hands crack and corner to the top as it widens (enduro crux).
Location Just left of where the trail reaches the SE face of the Fin, you will encounter an obvious crack with a broken corner at the bottom and a weird flake (juts out left) guarding the exit of that section to the good crack. the route is well marked by a plaque.
Protection Bloom's book is misleading. It suggests heavy 1.5" cams and then a few 2.5" 's. Whereas in fact, you need some 2"s for sure. Perhaps he equivocated .75 camalots (green) as 1.5" cams?
Take cams from your smallest cam to .75" (1 each), a 3" cam for the horizontal before the bad rock, then a few 1" and maybe 4X each 1.5 and 2" cams. Then a few 2.5's for the top section.
By david goldstein
Apr 1, 2006
| This pitch has a lot of fun climbing and many rests (it's a soft touch for the cliff). The bottom 30' are a nice change of pace, gym style climbing. A confidence inspiring introduction to the grade. |
By misterclimberman
May 10, 2006
| 1.5 inch would be a .75 camalot, 1 inch would be a .5, 2.5 inch would be a 2 camalot, and so on. its important to realize this when reading blooms book.
bobby |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 16, 2007
| "1.5 inch would be a .75 camalot, 1 inch would be a .5, 2.5 inch would be a 2 camalot, and so on. its important to realize this when reading blooms book."
Nearest equivalent, yes... but if all you take on this climb is what he says and translate it, you might be sorry.
A .75 camalot is a little bigger than a 1.5" and a 2 camalot is a 2.25" peice...
When a climb borders on the edge of an overlap sometimes you don't get what you want and nothing fits. I always take a peice or two above and below the descrition to account for rack lost in translation. And that serves me well. |
By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 16, 2008
rating: 5.11a R
| The first bit of this route is very fun climbing but on choss, don't fall. Putting more than one peice in the horizontal might be a good idea. There was a fixed tcu in the thin crack below the horizontal when I did it. |
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