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Beardsley Boulders
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The Fear of Having Sex with Dead People 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Blair/Andy Linkner 3/1985
Page Views: 550
Submitted By: Scott Frankel on Dec 11, 2011

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Susan on the tough start to 'The fear of having se...

Description 

Tough start leads to good face climbing. After passing the two bolts, you'll go into a seam up to the top. As other routes on 'Fear Rock', the start is the toughest part of the climb.

Location 

This is one of the right most routes on 'Fear Rock'. It's the bolted route on the right most side of the formation. The approach to 'Fear Rock' is not trivial, expect 20 minutes of boulder hopping.

Protection 

Two bolts to a single bolt rappel or walk off. If you want to protect the seam, bring small to medium pro. There used to be two bolts up at the top, but only one remains.


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By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun route. First 10 feet is pumpy but big ledges. Runout eases considerably. One bolt hanger missing on anchor