The Faux Pas Arete
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FPA is best described as side pulling on the arete...
The Faux Pas Arete is the clean-cut white corner to the right of Recompense's top pitch. Since the granite is a striking shade of white, it is easily seen from the road below.
The route is very convenient to TR. Simply set a belay where Recompense ends and lower your climber to the obvious mini-ledge. From this ledge, climb right to the corner, and delicately smear, slap, and finesse your way to the top.
To lead, rappel to the ledge, set a belay in the Recompense corner and give your climber a vote of confidence as he smears, slaps, and finesses his way to the top. It's bolted, but this pitch is certainly not a sport route. The distance from the first to the second bolt is unnerving.
Bolts. Gear to set an anchor, either at the top or the bottom of the pitch (or both).
While this photo is not of any technical part of t...
Brian down low on Faux Pas.
|Comments on The Faux Pas Arete
|By Jay Knower|
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 26, 2009