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The Prow Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Pretty Face T 
Beast Flake, The T 
Edge of the World S 
Faux Pas Arete, The T,S 
Gypsy T 
Liquid Sky T,S 
Peanut Gallery Flake T 
Prow, The T 
Recompense T 
Women in Love T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Faux Pas Arete 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Bouchard
Page Views: 2,024
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jun 1, 2009

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Brian down low on Faux Pas.

Description 

The Faux Pas Arete is the clean-cut white corner to the right of Recompense's top pitch. Since the granite is a striking shade of white, it is easily seen from the road below.

The route is very convenient to TR. Simply set a belay where Recompense ends and lower your climber to the obvious mini-ledge. From this ledge, climb right to the corner, and delicately smear, slap, and finesse your way to the top.

To lead, rappel to the ledge, set a belay in the Recompense corner and give your climber a vote of confidence as he smears, slaps, and finesses his way to the top. It's bolted, but this pitch is certainly not a sport route. The distance from the first to the second bolt is unnerving.


Protection 

Bolts. Gear to set an anchor, either at the top or the bottom of the pitch (or both).



Photos of The Faux Pas Arete Slideshow Add Photo
FPA is best described as side pulling on the arete while smear/ liebacking on slightly less then vertical granite with intermittent crimps and pinches= awesomeness
FPA is best described as side pulling on the arete...
While this photo is not of any technical part of the climb, I think it gives you a sense of the awesome position the climb is in
While this photo is not of any technical part of t...
Comments on The Faux Pas Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Arsenault
Oct 26, 2009

John Bouchard did the 1st ascent

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Oct 26, 2009

Thanks Steve.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 21, 2013

Does anybody else find that it is a lot easier staying on the right side of the arete until the very top? I just TRed it, but couldn't help thinking "why aren't the bolts over here?" Must have been from bolting on the lead. It was beautiful climbing on the right, flowed nicely and great positioning. Felt like easier 11 that way.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Oct 22, 2013

I'm pretty sure it was rap bolted on the f/a..? never tried it on the right side.