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BETA PHOTO: The route. Climb the hand crack until you are und...
|Seasonal Raptor Closures.|
This is a pretty cool route with great exposure at the crux. It goes up a scaly crack to a roof, then left at the roof. The moves to get out from under the roof are the crux. It takes great pro the whole route as long as you're careful about the flakiness in the lower crack.
Maybe 50ft right of Sweat Engine?
Gear including a #3 Camalot. Anchors are two side by side quick clips that will twist your rope if you lower through them.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 11, 2014
This is one of the absolute BEST TRAD LINES AT THE CLIFFS! There are a few stones still rattling around in the hand crack but, after climbing this line many times, Im certain that very few of them will ever come out. There was also a death block just under the roof and it is now gone. There is a little flakey rock but most of it is cleaned up.
Climb a hand crack (with plenty of other options for hands and feet) to the underside of a roof, place a few smaller pieces of gear and then pull out of the left side of the roof to a no hands rest on a ledge. You feel incredibly exposed at this point, as theres no real place to put gear, so make sure you have good gear below your feet before you pull the bulge to the chains. If you really want protection here, there is a tiny crack (took a .1 camalot) just over the top of the bulge that you can use to protect the final move to the chains. Rap to the right of the crack at the top. This will not only take you straight down your line for cleaning but if you start your rap into the dihedral, your rope can easily get stuck in small crack at the top of the bulge. DONT MISS THIS ROUTE!! It is amazing.
By Michael Beasley
From: Boise, ID
Sep 13, 2015
Fantastic route! Probably the best trad at the cliffs that I have done. A little dirty in some spots but not bad. Highly recommend it.