The Farmer's Wife
|193 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb, Chris Parks, 2/3/01|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Feb 3, 2001|
This climb was previously unreported and is suspected to have been a FA, but it appears to share most of it's line with Blind Mouse, and was Named The Farmer's Wife. The name was given after doing the start of Blind Mouse and finding a "Butcher-knife" hold or two... where upon a certain nursery rhyme about '3 blind mice' came to mind.
To climb this route, start up under the Alcove of Something Blue, Blues Power, etc, considerably right of Allosaur. Climb a ramp of mostly poor rock, placing gear over-head where available, between the main wall and the 'roof' formed overhead by the alcove. I believe this to be the beginning of Blind Mouse. Continue on this line until the roof ends (Blind Mouse escapes to the right on a slab/corner) and then up left past this point to some crack and corner systems (shallow, left facing). Climb up the first of these, step left to the second, and then up to the top of it, then up to a diagonal band, which is followed up and left over the roof making the "hand" over Allosaur, continuing until the feet would otherwise drop off under the roof above the "finger" over Allosaur, then go up and right across the face to hit the summit ridge. Improvise a [directional] and then go out to a belay where possible (I retreated back some distance.
Ammendum: The top 1/2 of this line appears to have been followed by the line "Pork Chop" although it was approached via a different system than the corner.
A light rack with stoppers and cams to 4".The initial overhanging corner is pretty bad rock, and the top is a little trick to protect. As well, the final face is in need of a good brushing before the route can reach it's potential.