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West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
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A Moveable Flake 
Allosaur 
Auntie Perspirant 
Blind Mouse 
Blues Power 
Clean Freak 
Crow's Landing 
Earnest Stemmingway 
Ernest Extended Way 
Exterminator, The 
Farmer's Wife, The 
First Unknown 
Flyback 
Foaming Cleanser 
Initial Hangover 
Initial Route 
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Kickin' Chicken 
Leg of Ilg 
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Odarodle 
Office Girls Walk The Plank 
Party Pooper 
Pork Chop 
Quo Vadis 
Ranger Danger 
Roadside Attraction 
Runsholl Scrunch 
Shot and Chaser 
Sleepytime 
Something Blue 
Stepping Stones 
Super Scooper 
Territorial Integrity 
Thunderbolts From Hell 
Thunderworld 
Up the Downclimb 
Verschneidung 
Water Line 
Wild Turkey 
Wingshot 
Wishbone 

The Farmer's Wife 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
FA: Tony Bubb, Chris Parks, 2/3/01
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 204
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 3, 2001
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb was previously unreported and is suspected to have been a FA, but it appears to share most of it's line with Blind Mouse, and was Named The Farmer's Wife. The name was given after doing the start of Blind Mouse and finding a "Butcher-knife" hold or two... where upon a certain nursery rhyme about '3 blind mice' came to mind.

To climb this route, start up under the Alcove of Something Blue, Blues Power, etc, considerably right of Allosaur. Climb a ramp of mostly poor rock, placing gear over-head where available, between the main wall and the 'roof' formed overhead by the alcove. I believe this to be the beginning of Blind Mouse. Continue on this line until the roof ends (Blind Mouse escapes to the right on a slab/corner) and then up left past this point to some crack and corner systems (shallow, left facing). Climb up the first of these, step left to the second, and then up to the top of it, then up to a diagonal band, which is followed up and left over the roof making the "hand" over Allosaur, continuing until the feet would otherwise drop off under the roof above the "finger" over Allosaur, then go up and right across the face to hit the summit ridge. Improvise a [directional] and then go out to a belay where possible (I retreated back some distance.

Ammendum: The top 1/2 of this line appears to have been followed by the line "Pork Chop" although it was approached via a different system than the corner.


Protection 

A light rack with stoppers and cams to 4".The initial overhanging corner is pretty bad rock, and the top is a little trick to protect. As well, the final face is in need of a good brushing before the route can reach it's potential.



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