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The Far Side
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Select Route:
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) 
5.9 
At Last 
Atlas 
Atlas Shrugged 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) 
Better Eat Your Wheaties 
Boneless Chicken Ranch 
Bushy Crack 
Cereal Killer 
Chief, The 
Curse of Madame C 
Death to the right 
Far Out 
Far Side Chimney 
Farther 
Feelin' Your Oats 
Gorilla Finishing School 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face 
Initiation Rite 
Jardinero 
Kola 
Left Behind 
Let's Climb Naked (aka Far) 
Near Side Chimney 
New Tradition 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies 
Old Tradition 
Pile, The 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 
Rite of Passage 
Saviour Heart 
Separation Anxiety 
Seymour Frishberg 
Shute-Mills Route 
Something Good 
Sport Roof Left 
Sport Roof Right 
Step To The Left 
Synchronicity 
Two-Bolt Slab 
War Party 

The Far Side 


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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jun 22, 2002

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Eric Berghorn on Mystery Hole .10a at The Far Side...

Description 

The Far Side is mainly pocketed climbing on moderate steep steep faces. Its actually a bunch of ~50 foot rocks in one dense area, and none of them (to my knowledge) have been named, so we adress them in group. The climbing tends to be either extemely run out, or mixed bolts and trad... depending on your mindset and rack. Its a beautiful place that's far enough off the beaten path not see much traffic.


Getting There 

At the Bubble on the fire trail follow the trail starting slight left of the rock. It will take you gradually uphill for a mile, (above a couple other rocks with climbing potential, if you're interested). Finally, it will abruptly reach an odvious climbing area with Mills-Shute route directly in front of you. Its a great warm-up for the day, and about the best-protected climb in the area.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Far Side:
Far Side Chimney   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless)   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Shute-Mills Route   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
New Tradition   5.8     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Curse of Madame C   5.8+     Sport, 45 feet   
Seymour Frishberg   5.9 X     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Kola   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Separation Anxiety   5.9+     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Cereal Killer   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
Night of the Crash Test Dummies   5.10a     Sport, 45 feet   
Atlas Shrugged   5.10a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
5.9   5.10a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Sport Roof Right   5.10b     Sport, 25 feet   
Feelin' Your Oats   5.10b R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Atlas   5.10c R     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
The Chief   5.10c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
Better Eat Your Wheaties   5.10d PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
At Last   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Boneless Chicken Ranch   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Synchronicity   5.11+     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Far Side

Featured Route For The Far Side
The line up Kola. Great, panoramic view from the top.

Kola 5.9  CA : SF Bay Area : ... : The Far Side
This steep slab route is on the highest spire at the Far Side. Airy exposure and breath taking views make you want to take extra rests on this Mt. St. Helena classic....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Comments on The Far Side Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2002

The trail from The Bubble is about 1/2 mile up and down hill. Watch out for Poison Oak along the way- it is difficult to see, as it is mixed in with the various other diciduous species in the undergrowth you are meandering past and through. This and the occasional sharp branch dictate the favor of wearing long pants for this approach.

PS- the rock here is a little better than at The Bubble.

By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Mar 25, 2007

Many of the early routes here were established by Ken Stanton and friends back in the '80s. This isn't a pure "sport" crag. Take some gear with you. There is often ample protection in the horizontal slots. Tri-cams and TCUs are helpful. With this in mind, the X ratings given many of these climbs seem excessive. Most routes do not have lower-off anchors. Its easy to set up top rope anchors for most climbs with long slings, and you can scramble to/from the anchors around the back.

By Floyd Hayes
Oct 27, 2008

About half way along the trail from the Bubble you pass an exposed rocky area on a ridge. A few minutes beyond this area the trail appears to fork uphill and downhill--be sure to take the downhill option to get to the Far Side (the uphill option quickly ends).

There is an easy trail going around the base of the first rock formation, but getting to the upper rock formations requires some unpleasant scrambling. When descending from the upper rock formations, downclimbing the gully to the right of Shute-Mills is a bit sketchy--you might consider rappelling Shute-Mills instead.

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Feb 9, 2011

The naming of the route "New Tradition" was meant to symbolize the new style (circa 2000) of bolting ethic this area deserves. I am happy to see this tradition taking hold. According to some comments, however, another new, new tradition is to upgrade the ratings for almost every climb out there.

What ever happened to the good old fashioned sandbagging that once gave the Far Side it's character?

By Matt Collins
From: Chico,CA
Jul 4, 2011

Watch out for ants around the top set of routes. They were pouring out of the trees and you cannot get away from them.