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The Far Side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
5.8 TR 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Boneless Chicken Ranch T 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Curse of Madame C S 
Death to the Right T 
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Forrester's Crack T 
Gorilla Finishing School S 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Ivory Coast S,TR 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Left Behind T 
Lichen It T 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpio Rising  S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Sport Roof Left S 
Sport Roof Right S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 
War Party S,TR 

The Far Side Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.65135, -122.61856 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,399
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jun 22, 2002
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Eric Berghorn on Mystery Hole .10a at The Far Side...

Description 

The Far Side is mainly pocketed climbing on moderate steep steep faces. Its actually a bunch of 50 foot rocks in one dense area, and none of them (to my knowledge) have been named, so we address them in group. It's a beautiful place that's far enough off the beaten path not see much traffic.

Many of the early routes here were established by Ken Stanton and friends back in the '80s. This isn't a pure "sport" crag. Take some gear with you. There is often ample protection in the horizontal slots. Tri-cams and TCUs are helpful. With this in mind, the X ratings given many of these climbs seem excessive. Most routes do not have lower-off anchors. Its easy to set up top rope anchors for most climbs with long slings, and you can scramble to/from the anchors around the back.

The naming of the route "New Tradition" was meant to symbolize the new style (circa 2000) of bolting ethic this area deserves. I am happy to see this tradition taking hold. According to some comments, however, another new, new tradition is to upgrade the ratings for almost every climb out there.

If you like trad climbing, consider climbing "Tradfest II 5.9," a contrived "multipitch" adventure linking 7 moderate trad climbs on 6 pinnacles from the bottom to the top of The Far Side. A description and a link to a video are provided for the route "Tradfest."

Getting There 

The trail from The Bubble is about 1/2 mile up and down hill. Watch out for poison oak along the way- it is difficult to see, as it is mixed in with the various other deciduous species in the undergrowth you are meandering past and through. This and the occasional sharp branch dictate the favor of wearing long pants for this approach.

At the Bubble on the fire trail follow the trail starting slight left of the rock. It will take you gradually uphill for a mile (above a couple other rocks with climbing potential, if you're interested). Finally, it will abruptly reach an obvious climbing area with Shute-Mills Route directly in front of you. It's a great warm up for the day, and about the best-protected climb in the area.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.1 miles from here

53 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',5],['5.8',13],['5.9',9],['5.10',14],['5.11',7],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Far Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Far Side:
Lichen It   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Shute-Mills Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Farthing   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
New Tradition   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Far Out   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 35'   
Seymour Frishberg   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Kola   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Separation Anxiety   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Night of the Crash Test Dummies   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 45'   
Jardinero   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Mystery Hole   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Cereal Killer   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Scorpio Rising    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Atlas Shrugged   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Atlas   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
The Chief   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Spellcaster   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Continental Drift Whiplash   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Boneless Chicken Ranch   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Far Side

Featured Route For The Far Side
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Thornburg on Continental Drift Whiplash

Continental Drift Whiplash 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : The Far Side
This climb was top-roped by Ken Stanton and Robin Madgewick circa 1990 following the F.A. of Boneless Chicken Ranch. It shares the anchor of Boneless Chicken Ranch which is the next climb over 20 feet to the left. Ken Stanton gave this top rope variation the name "Continental Drift Whiplash". This climb is now an excellent lead with sustained pocket pulling on highly featured, good quality rock. Using cams to supplement the steep bolted section is recommended to make the lead safe....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on The Far Side Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2002
The trail from The Bubble is about 1/2 mile up and down hill. Watch out for Poison Oak along the way- it is difficult to see, as it is mixed in with the various other diciduous species in the undergrowth you are meandering past and through. This and the occasional sharp branch dictate the favor of wearing long pants for this approach.

PS- the rock here is a little better than at The Bubble.
By Jerry Dodrill
From: Bodega, CA
Mar 25, 2007
Many of the early routes here were established by Ken Stanton and friends back in the '80s. This isn't a pure "sport" crag. Take some gear with you. There is often ample protection in the horizontal slots. Tri-cams and TCUs are helpful. With this in mind, the X ratings given many of these climbs seem excessive. Most routes do not have lower-off anchors. Its easy to set up top rope anchors for most climbs with long slings, and you can scramble to/from the anchors around the back.
By outdooreric
From: La Mesa, CA
Feb 9, 2011
The naming of the route "New Tradition" was meant to symbolize the new style (circa 2000) of bolting ethic this area deserves. I am happy to see this tradition taking hold. According to some comments, however, another new, new tradition is to upgrade the ratings for almost every climb out there.

What ever happened to the good old fashioned sandbagging that once gave the Far Side it's character?
By Matt..C
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jul 4, 2011
Watch out for ants around the top set of routes. They were pouring out of the trees and you cannot get away from them.
By Floyd Hayes
Nov 14, 2013
If you like trad climbing, consider climbing "Tradfest II 5.8," a contrived "multipitch" adventure linking 7 moderate trad climbs on 6 pinnacles from the bottom to the top of The Far Side. A description and a link to a video are provided for the route "Tradfest."

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