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The Far Side is mainly pocketed climbing on moderate steep steep faces. Its actually a bunch of ~50 foot rocks in one dense area, and none of them (to my knowledge) have been named, so we adress them in group. The climbing tends to be either extemely run out, or mixed bolts and trad... depending on your mindset and rack. Its a beautiful place that's far enough off the beaten path not see much traffic.
At the Bubble on the fire trail follow the trail starting slight left of the rock. It will take you gradually uphill for a mile, (above a couple other rocks with climbing potential, if you're interested). Finally, it will abruptly reach an odvious climbing area with Mills-Shute route directly in front of you. Its a great warm-up for the day, and about the best-protected climb in the area.
50 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Far Side
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Far Side:
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Shute-Mills Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
New Tradition 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Kola 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Seymour Frishberg 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Separation Anxiety 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Cereal Killer 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Mystery Hole 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Atlas Shrugged 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Atlas 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
The Chief 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Boneless Chicken Ranch 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For The Far Side
The Chief 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : The Far Side
The Chief is more fun, steeper, better protected, and more straight-forward than its neighbor War Party (5.11b). Unfortunately, it isn't any longer. Hop up on a block, then pull through 3 bolts on an impressively overhanging face using many pockets. This is a gym-climber's .10c, as it is pretty pumpy for how short it is....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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