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Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden 
Bird Man 
Blue Velvet 
Captain Fingers 
Crushed Velvet 
East Chimney 
Fang-Left Side, The 
Fracture, The 
Gallows Pole (direct) 
Grand Illusion 
Harding's Chimney 
Lady Luck 
Mini-Illusion, The 
Monkey Flower 
Opus 7 
South Summit Bolt Ladder 
Swallow Tail 

The Fang-Left Side 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FFA: Jim Orey, M. Vincent, 1971
Page Views: 815
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jan 31, 2007
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The Fang is a small pinnacle to the right of "Bolee Gold".
Boulder up onto the ramp of "Bolee Gold", then climb a 5.9 finger crack, and enter a chimney, forming the left side of the pinnacle.
Rappel from bolts or continue up "Harding's Chimney".


Pro to 2".

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By vincent L.
Apr 26, 2009

The crux is working up the short crack at the start. Solid finger locks lead to a couple insecure pods. Jam those real good , try to get a toe in the thin crack , and reach high for a solid hand jam . The short chimney is fun and you make an airy exit onto easy face climbing up to the anchor.

You can TR various bolted routes from the anchor.

It is a fun climb.

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Jan 18, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Climbed it today, a bat lives in there. Heard strange noises, cross-referenced with youtube, confirmed the noises i heard squeaking at me were a bat.

Super fun route. No sighting of the bat, but I suspect he lives in the 4" crack in the back of the chimney...