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The Family Wall

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Bubblecuffer S 
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The Family Wall  


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Location: 44.2472, -70.9622 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,126
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: steitz on Sep 16, 2011  with updates from John Ski
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Description 

The first cliff you come to at Shell Pond when you're following the trail. Climbs are all about a pitch, and range from easy 5.2s to 5.12s. Most are fairly well protected but some are extremely run out. There's a wonderful open bluff at the top of the cliff with a great view of the pond.

The Family Wall is an 80' steep slab with routes 5.5-5.11 trad and sport. A 60 meter rope will work for top-roping off the cliff's top trees. Descent is a trail on climbers left. Due to low visitor use, some routes could use a wire brush.

Getting There 

There are two ways to approach off NH Rt 113, either by Deer Hill Rd (shortest walk but seasonally gated) or by Stone House Rd. They both have road name signs.


Deer Hill Rd approach to Family Wall:
Drive 30 minutes north from N Conway/Fryeburg toward Evans Notch on Rt 113 to Deer Hill Rd on the right (Summit Achievement sign at road head). Drive 3.8 miles on Deer Hill Rd to a small pull off on the left. Walk 50 yds to start of Shell Pond Trail. Follow Shell Pond trail for 10-15 minutes until you come to Family Wall's faint climbers trail on your right (there may be a cairn), walk uphill 10 minutes to cliff.


Stone House Rd approach to Family Wall:
Continue north on Rt 113 1.1 miles past Bald Face parking lot to Stone House Rd on right (0.9 miles south of Basin Pond road on left). Follow Stone House Rd a short distance and take a right at T intersection. Continue on main road until you reach a gate closure and parking lot at 1.1 miles. Walk past gate toward Stone House. Don't take first Shell Pond Trail on right but continue on road past White Cairn Trail and Stone House Trail on your left to a LARGE field/landing strip on the right side of road near the Stone House. Walk the road in the middle of the field (avoiding the Stone House and being low key) for a beautiful half mile (Main Wall will come into sight high on left ridge) until you cross an ATV bridge on Shell Pond Trail.Go right after crossing bridge on Shell Pond trail another 25 minutes (left at fork) and look for faint climbers trail on your left. 10 minutes uphill and you're at the Family Wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.2 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Family Wall:
Bubblecuffer   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mr. Moose's Wild Ride   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The Family Wall

Featured Route For The Family Wall

Mr. Moose's Wild Ride 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a ME : Shell Pond : The Family Wall
This route was named after a Moose's bones were found at the base of it. At times the run outs may make you feel like you're about to join the moose.There are only 3 bolts the whole way, and the rare spot for a very creative trad gear placement, making the climbing of this route a hair raising adventure for those that dislike runouts....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

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