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The Fall of Rome 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Michael Kimm, April 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,501
Submitted By: Michael Kimm on Apr 3, 2010

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"Who says I'm too short to reach this?!"

Description 

The route climbs the left hand line on the tallest part of the main wall. Work the arete and the face barely right on small crimps up the vertical wall for three bolts, and then enjoy the near vertical 5.8 face to anchors.

Protection 

6 bolts to chains.


Photos of The Fall of Rome Slideshow Add Photo
Fall of Rome
BETA PHOTO: Fall of Rome
Thin lower section.
Thin lower section.
Jeremy using his ape index--cheater!
Jeremy using his ape index--cheater!
Good crimps after first couple moves.
Good crimps after first couple moves.
Darlene doesn't need the RayBans to look cool.
Darlene doesn't need the RayBans to look cool.
Clipping the second bolt is truly a wonderful thing.
Clipping the second bolt is truly a wonderful thin...
"Oh, yeah; I got this."
"Oh, yeah; I got this."
Who needs feet when you've got great hand holds?...
Who needs feet when you've got great hand holds?.....
Jeremy cheating again; long legs just aren't fair.
Jeremy cheating again; long legs just aren't fair.

Comments on The Fall of Rome Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 14, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great route- had a blast on the lower technical section and good fun on the upper. Watch for loose rock up top, though- this route is still shedding a bit.

Update 10/14- This route has definitely gotten harder- the crimps down low are getting smaller and it looks to have found its grade for sure. I thought it was quite easy when I first did it, but now that the first few holds have become pretty small edges, I'd say its earned 5.10b for sure.
By Cultivating Mass
May 27, 2011

Can't believe that no one's commented yet that the crux moves on the route are subject to ledging out if you blow it before hitting the second bolt. A good route and well worth doing, but PG13 at least. There's a big boulder that you're almost certain to become good friends with if you blow it on the crimpy, small-hold off balance moves getting to the 2nd bolt. I'd reccommend clipping the first bolt with a locker-if you managed to brush the draw and unclip yourself, you'll be activating your dental plan and taking an unplanned year or two off at best. A cool heads-up route.
By frank minunni
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 17, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Very nice route but only one hard move and no harder than 9+ at most. As far as safety, didn't see a problem but if you're worried about hitting the boulders it would be easy to stick clip the second bolt.
By Patrick R. M.
From: Henderson, Nevada
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Tricky start not to be underestimated if this is at your limit. Also, don't be swayed to the anchors of manifest destiny, climb through up and left!