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Falcon, The 

The Falcon 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b X

   
Type: Trad, 7 pitches, 800', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Troy D. Anderson and Nate Brown 1998
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Nate Brown on Aug 28, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Babes on left, Falcon on right

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Description 

Good desert adventure on what has been previously described as the "Falcon Arie" meaning the wall that starts with "Babes in Thailand" on the southern (left) end and ending in the north-facing routes to the north including an old, mostly forgotten Lowe aid route. Troy and I did this route after the bolting ban came in to effect and a permit/application process was required for any new fixed anchors. Troy and I did the route without drilling. Troy lead a pitch half way up the route that was about 80 feet of 5.10 slab and face climbing over a sidewalk-type ledge. We found a broken bicycle half way up the route that we later learned came from a television stunt spearheaded by Middendorf. Joe French has joked about calling this system "The Whores of Singapore".


Location 

The route is about 500 feet north of Babes in Thailand and climbs a left-facing chossy corner/crack system in the center of the face. The system is broken by the blank, run-out slab section that leads in to a bushy, just-less-than vertical splitter system. We descended as for Babes.


Protection 

Good rack of cams and nuts, maybe a crash pad.



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By Nate Brown
From: Wilson, Wy
Aug 28, 2009

I should add: When Todd Goss put out his book, in a phone conversation we had, he refused to include this route because he called it a "death route". I guess if we had permitted it and drilled it in to submission, it would have worked into his paradigm, or is it paragon?

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Aug 28, 2009

That guy is pretty much everybody's favorite guidebook author.